Hi Doug, we're getting closer..
Dougrainer wrote:
1. It is NOT the size wire gauge for SAFETY. It is the SIZE wire gauge to adequately transfer FULL 12 volt power to the refer. The smaller the wire gauge the LESS 12 volt power is transmitted to the 12 volt element.
Wouldn't you think that if 10 ga wire can support -100 amps- of 12 volts at 7 feet, it would be enough for the 12v, -16 amps-, 6 feet that the my fridge draws? After all, 100 amps is more than 6 times what my fridge draws.
Dougrainer wrote:
2. You have as BYPASS tstat. That is why it freezes on 120 and cools correctly on LP. The POINTS in the 120 side of the tstat are welded/stuck together and the unit runs 24/7 on 120. You need a new tstat to fix the 120 problem. IF you have a silver metal capillary tube inside on the evap fins the tstat I linked too is the correct tstat. It is a 120 and LP ONLY tstat
I don't know what a "BYPASS" thermostat is when referencing refrigeration. I have only seen the term used in automotive coolant thermostats. Can you help me with this? Yes, I do have the capillary tube running on to the fins. and Yes, line voltage is 122vac.
Dougrainer wrote:
3. Regardless of what the OEM did does NOT make the original install correct. Chinnok motorhomes were about the same size as yours and their Dometic 3 way refers had 8 gauge wire to the refer from the battery.
The Installation manual for the fridge calls for 10 gauge wire up to 17 feet from battery, and 8 gauge wire for up to 27 feet.
RM2453 Install manual Page 8.
Dougrainer wrote:
5. I doubt the element sleeve has come loose. That is extremely rare, I have only seen 1 in 38 years.
I would tend to agree. I guess the only way I'll find out is to take it apart and have a look-see.
Dougrainer wrote:
Your model does have the 12 volt thru the tstat, but this is what the instructions state.
This appears to be contrary to what you have stated in several posts previously.
This is your quote from the manual.
Dougrainer wrote:
DO NOT operate the refrigerator on 12 volt when the vehicle is parked. The amperage draw of the 12-volt DC heating element can discharge a battery in a very short time. The installation of a 12volt DC operated refrigerator requires a relay to be installed on the tow vehicle or in the caravan. The relay will automatically shut off the 12 volt DC power to the refrigerator when the ignition is turned off.
This is not relevant to my either of my issues but just to be on the same page, my Roadtrek does not have this relay in place and is not needed. I understand that if I leave the fridge on 12 V while parked, It will simply drain the HOUSE battery down NOT the vehicle's chassis battery. There IS a battery isolator installed that allows charging BOTH HOUSE and CHASSIS batteries while the engine is running, but when the vehicle's ignition is turned off, the chassis battery is no longer connected to the house battery, so it can't drain the chassis battery down and leave me stranded.
I think we agree on the fact that I need at least a new thermostat for the 120 VAC issue. As I mentioned earlier, I do believe it is shorted. I am going to have to wait until I can pull the sheet metal cover off the boiler area and check the 12v heater positioning.
I am going to try and contact Dometic and see if they can provide me with clarification of the tstat operation for all 3 modes. Or at least ask them what the LP open/close portion of the tstat mechanism is. It is not listed in the schematic, yet the manual mentions its use in the operation of LP mode.
I will update this thread as I find answers and resolutions to my issues.
Thanks.
