DSI Fault

So, we got to our next stop. I did two voltage tests. 1 was to check the battery voltage without shore power..13.1 then I plugged shore power in and it said 13.7. That should tell me that the charging system of the rig is working. TV? I guess that's short for tow vehicle.

I have taken the batteries out, will have them tested. If they show good, then its back to the drawing board. If the are bad, I'll buy new ones.

Stay tuned

rockcandymountain wrote:
While trying to figure out what is wrong with my furnace not wanting to come on. I noticed a red light in the DSI panel that says DSI fault. Would that make it so that the furnace or hot water would not come on? If there is a fault how can it be corrected?

That is one of the easier questions to answer (What triggers the light)

The furnace has a flame sensor (A thermocouple) it may also be igniter spark rod. IF the furnace lights and works normally this rod gets quite hot and starts sending current.. or generating about 0.48 volts (And the current that results from that voltage sent to the control board)

IF the control board does not sense that voltage and current then FAULT (it tries 3 times then goes to fault)

NOW what could cause that to happen. that's a much harder question.. For this you need to step out and remove the outside panel. turn the circuit breaker/switch atop the blower housing OFF and have then set the T-Stat high enough to call for heat.

Outside turn switch on.. You should hear the blower start up and then you may hear the gas valve click, there will be a change in the WOOSH sound as gas flows. And you should hear the snap shap of the ignighter followed by FLAME ON.. If this does not happen.. Post what does and we will continue.

If it does happen. then it will flame off, on off on off and the fault light comes on

Step one is clean the sensor rod. also make sure the burner is coming on strong. If this does work pull the control board to an RV dealer who can test it. I recommend replacement with Dinosaur Board boards.

Way better built.

TV is tow vehicle. You should get a similar increase in voltage at trailer batteries when vehicle is running.
Some GM vehicles need to have a dummy relay replaced with a real one. Some GM vehicles must have wire connected under the hood. Most Fords are good to go.

I replaced the batteries which showed bad when tested. I now have heat. No hot water on gas though. I turned on the gas at the panel and went outside. I could hear the solenoid activate, then no spark. So, I suspect that the control module may be bad. Not sure if there's any way to test. Hot water does work on the electric side. So, we will continue to our destination and do some more work on it when there.

Thanks for all the ideas

It may take 5 or 6 times igniting water heater before sufficient gas gets there.
You might check the gap on the ignitor.

enblethen wrote:
It may take 5 or 6 times igniting water heater before sufficient gas gets there.

That's exactly how my Atwood water heater behaves. I almost always have to recycle the switch after the 3rd automatic try, and it's usually lit before having to recycle the switch a 2nd time. It does actually light on the 1st or 2nd try, but the flame isn't sensed and it shuts down. If I haven't used any propane at all for more than a couple of days, I always run the cooktop burners for a little bit first.

I had that problem on my Attwwood heater if cold it took multiple re-tries before it would light.. Finally it refused to light at all. new control board fixed it.

If you can post the make and exact model of water heater