4/28/14 This post was originally called "Replacing Microwave", but we found out how to fix it instead!We just posted the answer to this problem (fixing the microwave itself) on 4/17/2014.We have a 2004 Keystone Everest with a Dometic DOTR12CBIV Microwave over the range. It stopped working this past weekend. I went into the cabinet above the microwave, unplugged the unit and plugged in a blender. The blender works, so it’s not the breaker.We need to uninstall the microwave so we can get to the internal 110V 20 amp fuse, sure hope that is the problem, and probably replace the unit. Problem is we can’t figure out how to uninstall it!The installation instructions tell you how to install the wall bracket. Then they tell you to hang the bottom edge on the support tabs at the bottom of the mounting plate, then feed the power cord through the upper cabinet and “rotate the microwave upward so the top of the oven is against the bottom of the upper cabinet frame”. That’s all!With other under cabinet microwaves part of the installation was to drill two holes near the front of the bottom of the upper cabinet. Once the microwave was rotated into position you place mounting screws into those holes to hold the microwave in place. This was not mentioned in the Dometic instructions and there are no support screws in the upper cabinet. Once it is rotated up, what stops it from falling back down? How do we remove it from the back mounting plate so we can fix it or replace it?

If yours looks like this typical installation below I believe that you remove those 4 screws in the corners and then go from there.

Does your cabinet above the microwave have a bottom panel that is easily removable? I think you may find some fasteners under there that attach to the microwave chassis.

My microwave installation looked like the picture above. And, my microwave just slides out after the decorative vents at the top and bottom are removed. I think they are not mounted to the shelf above, as in your home, due to the stress the microwave bouncing up and down on the road would put on the shelf.

To keep control when undoing the hangers, put a car jack on a piece of wood or a pile of books to give it enough height on the stove top/counter and let that hold the MW up while you undo the hangers. Then crank the jack down to lower the MW until you can get hold of it. Put it back the same way only in reverse.

westend wrote:Does your cabinet above the microwave have a bottom panel that is easily removable? I think you may find some fasteners under there that attach to the microwave chassis.Yes it does have a relatively easy bottom plate to remove. I merely have to un-attach the wire for the light. I'll give that a try when i get home tonight.My microwave does not slide into a cabinet space like the ones illustrated. It hangs under the top cabinet. As the instructions say, you hang the bottom of the back onto the mounting bracket and rotate it up into place.

Easy Repair for Dead RV Microwave | Good Sam Community

32 Replies

Sandy___Shirley
Explorer
Apr 28, 2014
Update: took our first camping trip after the "repair" this past weekend and all worked fine. Used the microwave a few times with no problems.
opnspaces
Navigator II
Apr 19, 2014
Glad you got it fixed and thanks for the update.
Ron3rd
Explorer III
Apr 18, 2014
Sandy & Shirley wrote:
Ron3rd wrote:
BTW, I imagine your MW installs similar to the home units that mount over a range. They generally hook into a wall mounted plate at the bottom and are secured with 2 screws at the top. That's how the last 3 I installed worked.

Actually no, it does not install that way. You place the lower back edge on the mounting plate then rotate it into place. After that, there are two super long screws, one in the upper right corner and the other in the upper left corner. You hold the unit against the mounting plate and turn those screws to screw the back top corners into the plate.

I probably did not explain myself correctly, but what you describe was what I was thinking. Good job on getting it fixed.
Sandy___Shirley
Explorer
Apr 18, 2014
Ron3rd wrote:
BTW, I imagine your MW installs similar to the home units that mount over a range. They generally hook into a wall mounted plate at the bottom and are secured with 2 screws at the top. That's how the last 3 I installed worked.

Actually no, it does not install that way. You place the lower back edge on the mounting plate then rotate it into place. After that, there are two super long screws, one in the upper right corner and the other in the upper left corner. You hold the unit against the mounting plate and turn those screws to screw the back top corners into the plate.
CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Apr 17, 2014
Ours which was mounted in a slide with no overhead access was mounted on a back wall plate. There were 2 long screws from the lower front corners that extended diagonally upwards to the upper back corners and into the mounting plate. With wood blocking underneath removal and installation was easy.
Ron3rd
Explorer III
Apr 17, 2014
BTW, I imagine your MW installs similar to the home units that mount over a range. They generally hook into a wall mounted plate at the bottom and are secured with 2 screws at the top. That's how the last 3 I installed worked.
Ron3rd
Explorer III
Apr 17, 2014
Good job Sandy, did you unplug the MW? :)
Dog_Folks
Explorer
Apr 17, 2014
Sandy & Shirley wrote:
I fixed the microwave today.

I had trouble removing the vent grill at the front top of the microwave. I mistook the “two screws” that hold it in place for the two screws that screw downward from the top of the metal frame. Those screws do nothing to hold the grill plate in place. If you look directly at the front of the grill about one inch below those to larger screws that is where you will find two very small holes for the #4 x 1 ¼ inch screws that actually do hold the cover plate on.

So here are the steps we used to fix the microwave:

1. UNPLUG the microwave. The plug should be located inside the cabinet that is over the microwave.
2. Remove the front grill plate with a very small Philips screw driver that can reach inside recessed holes for those tiny #4 screws. The head of a #4 screw is less than a quarter inch in diameter.
3. Make sure that you UNPLUGGED the microwave.
4. Unless you are over 6 feet tall, stand on a chair and look inside the unit. You are looking just behind the left edge of the control panel, about 3 or 4 inches from the right edge of the microwave. You will see a standard 20 amp fuse, about 1 quarter inch diameter and about an inch and a quarter long. Like I said, a standard fuse.
5. Are you sure you UNPLUGGED the microwave!
6. Reach in and remove the fuse and test it with a volt meter. Ours was blown and we replaced it for less than $2.00. If you did not follow steps 1, 3, and 5, be ready for a shocking experience when you try to remove the fuse.
7. Replace the fuse, plug it back in and test it. If you are as lucky as we were, it will work fine.
8. Replace the front grill and Happy RV’ing.

If it is still dead, you can now see two flat head screws, one near the upper left corner and one near the upper right corner. Support the microwave so it doesn’t just fall off the wall and loosen these flat head screws to let the microwave fall forward off the wall.

Thanks much for the update.
Sandy___Shirley
Explorer
Apr 17, 2014
I fixed the microwave today.

I had trouble removing the vent grill at the front top of the microwave. I mistook the “two screws” that hold it in place for the two screws that screw downward from the top of the metal frame. Those screws do nothing to hold the grill plate in place. If you look directly at the front of the grill about one inch below those to larger screws that is where you will find two very small holes for the #4 x 1 ¼ inch screws that actually do hold the cover plate on.

So here are the steps we used to fix the microwave:

1. UNPLUG the microwave. The plug should be located inside the cabinet that is over the microwave.
2. Remove the front grill plate with a very small Philips screw driver that can reach inside recessed holes for those tiny #4 screws. The head of a #4 screw is less than a quarter inch in diameter.
3. Make sure that you UNPLUGGED the microwave.
4. Unless you are over 6 feet tall, stand on a chair and look inside the unit. You are looking just behind the left edge of the control panel, about 3 or 4 inches from the right edge of the microwave. You will see a standard 20 amp fuse, about 1 quarter inch diameter and about an inch and a quarter long. Like I said, a standard fuse.
5. Are you sure you UNPLUGGED the microwave!
6. Reach in and remove the fuse and test it with a volt meter. Ours was blown and we replaced it for less than $2.00. If you did not follow steps 1, 3, and 5, be ready for a shocking experience when you try to remove the fuse.
7. Replace the fuse, plug it back in and test it. If you are as lucky as we were, it will work fine.
8. Replace the front grill and Happy RV’ing.

If it is still dead, you can now see two flat head screws, one near the upper left corner and one near the upper right corner. Support the microwave so it doesn’t just fall off the wall and loosen these flat head screws to let the microwave fall forward off the wall.
opnspaces
Navigator II
Apr 17, 2014
MrWizard found it. If you look at the text under picture 11 you will see they address two grill screws and then the mounting rods to remove the mounting plate. That's the plate that the microwave is hanging on.

You're probably going to want an extra person to hold the microwave while you remove the screws.

ROOM-VENTED (Recirculating)
INSTALLATION:
1. Remove ventgrille by removing two screws on the
ventgrille
2. Turn two mounting rods anti-clockwise with flat
blade screwdriver and take off the mounting plate
from the unit. See figure 11