Eco-Worthy MPPT and Solar30 PWM Test
Did a quick backyard test of my two solar controllers using the actual trailer wiring etc as intended for camping with solar later this month. Got some blue sky, no clouds. The Eco-W on the 230w p...
Forum Discussion
EDIT- Niner, you keep using "amps" when you mean AH so it is hard to follow. Also what "meter" did you use for the amps and voltages? When you got 14.92 after setting 14.8, was that on a separate multimeter or from the Solar30 itself?
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When you do that again, and there are no clouds rushing by to screw things up faster than you can take the readings, first take panel Isc with your ammeter across the two wires when the panel is disconnected from controller. Then connect and see what amps are going into the battery.
If the batteries are thirsty, and the wiring is good, you should see the same amps. Isc is whatever amps you get now, you don't have to get full rated Isc to do that comparison.
My problem with the Solar30 amps is that I got 7.7 on the Solar30 read-out when the Isc was 8. I need another ammeter on the battery like a Trimetric to see if that 7.7 was a calibration error on the Solar30 (it might be reading low) or a wiring issue (batteries were thirsty enough).
My old 120w panel got its full Isc of 7.6 to the battery ok. What is the Isc of that 120w you have? ie, 2 x the 60w Isc rating.
What is your T-1275 situation? Last heard you got two used ones but they were duds, but now you have another and it is good? My two used ones are doing ok and have about 270AH. I have them as a separate bank from the four 6s now and the two just do the 2000w inverter work and have their own private solar of 130w/solar30. I proved out that set-up for a week or so last year and liked it, so will do that again.
The four 6s get the 230w/EcoW set and run the rest of the rig including the 1000w inverter and they have the Trimetric on them.
I need to swap the Trimetric over to the T-1275s temporarily to check the ammeter on the Solar30.
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When you do that again, and there are no clouds rushing by to screw things up faster than you can take the readings, first take panel Isc with your ammeter across the two wires when the panel is disconnected from controller. Then connect and see what amps are going into the battery.
If the batteries are thirsty, and the wiring is good, you should see the same amps. Isc is whatever amps you get now, you don't have to get full rated Isc to do that comparison.
My problem with the Solar30 amps is that I got 7.7 on the Solar30 read-out when the Isc was 8. I need another ammeter on the battery like a Trimetric to see if that 7.7 was a calibration error on the Solar30 (it might be reading low) or a wiring issue (batteries were thirsty enough).
My old 120w panel got its full Isc of 7.6 to the battery ok. What is the Isc of that 120w you have? ie, 2 x the 60w Isc rating.
What is your T-1275 situation? Last heard you got two used ones but they were duds, but now you have another and it is good? My two used ones are doing ok and have about 270AH. I have them as a separate bank from the four 6s now and the two just do the 2000w inverter work and have their own private solar of 130w/solar30. I proved out that set-up for a week or so last year and liked it, so will do that again.
The four 6s get the 230w/EcoW set and run the rest of the rig including the 1000w inverter and they have the Trimetric on them.
I need to swap the Trimetric over to the T-1275s temporarily to check the ammeter on the Solar30.
