Elec. heat v. Gas heat

dougrainer wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Personally never heard of an AC Heat put being efficient down to 35.

Since you were paying attention. I put the money I would have spent with my three 15k AC's NOT having Heat Pumps and went with "Cheap Heat" option for my furnace. Simple flip of the switch I am on Electric or Propane.

My Penguin AC's would have been about $500 more each with the heat pumps.

NOT cheap but worth every $$$.

You need to broaden your knowledge base:B I have been a RV Tech for 40 years. I have been installing and working on RV HP's for the past 20 years since they introduced them for RV's. Unless you are consistently below 35 degrees, HP's are much better at Heating your RV. LESS noise and softer heat, than running a 12 volt furnace or the furnace with the 120 add on kit. MOST knowledgable RV'ers will select a HP option for their RV's. I had a HP at my stick home years ago and it worked just fine. I have yet to have a customer tell me that he wished he NEVER had the HP option. I HAVE had numerous customers add or asked to install a HP. Doug

Cummins12V98 wrote:
You may have more KNOWLEDGE than I but my 220V Cheap Heat addition causes no noise. My furnace is very quiet and is fully ducted.

Have a AC unit with heat pump go bad and it’s $$$. I have never heard of a single Cheap Heat issue.

Nice to have heat come down from the roof? Not the best for sure. Nice to have warm floors and to keep my tanks and plumbing heated.

No stupid space heaters to try to keep warm.

pianotuna wrote:
You would want to use 15 amps if that was all you had available. CH makes that impossible.

2. CH shuts down--and doesn't switch over to propane if the power goes off. That leaves the RV at risk of freezing.

WOW! What an exchange, a knowledgeable RV tech that thinks you can only tap 120 volts on a 220 volt 50 amp service!
I have never understood heating from the roof, heat strips or Heat Pump, they don't heat the basement.

Then there is Pianotuna, who thinks it is a major drawback that Cheap Heat will not automatically switch to propane if the power goes out. If that was an issue to me a simple 120 volt relay setup would handle that. To me getting out of bed at flipping a switch from gas to electric is not a big deal.

Pianotuna, there isn't much in the way of electric heat you can run on a 15 amp connection, small space heater, or a heated rug.

I am with Ron, I have installed the Cheap Heat system with the auto voltage switch over kit. This will automatically switch from heating with 220 volts/50 amps with 5,000 watts of heat, down to 120 volts, 30 amps with 1,800 watts of heat.
The 1.,800 watts of heat will hold 68 degrees in our three season 32' 5er as low as 32 degrees outside. If I need to raise the temp I simply switch to gas to raise the temp and switch back to electric. On 220V/50 amps have not found the low end yet. We have been down to about 22 degrees and still easily keeping up.
I also agree with Ron on the fact that Cheap Heat is NOT cheap to purchase. I am capable of doing my own electrical work, so did my own install.
When first installed the auto switch over wasn't available, it would take me about 15 to 20 minutes to move the necessary connections to switch over.

Cheap Heat