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ericsmith32's avatar
ericsmith32
Explorer
Sep 08, 2013

Electric steps and battery draw

Anyone else have this issue? It's been over a month since our last trip in our Class C. We have to close the step due to how much space it takes up on our driveway. I'd say on average it's used twice a week. Went to open it today and nothing. Checked the battery and it was only putting out 4.5 volts. Got it recharged and tested and it's ok.. it was new this year. Checked for parasitic draw and nothing.. maybe .06 amps on occasion. The steps took 5-7 amps whenever it was used. Of course the start from the rear battery didn't work.. doesn't surprise me with how screwed up everything else has been.

Has anyone rewired electric steps to the rear battery? Doesn't seem like a hard task... I'll probably put it out a switch so I could run it from either. It's seem like it is getting some power from the rear battery because it won't work when that battery is removed also. Anything I'm not thinking of?
  • Salvo wrote:
    I believe my step controller draws 23 mA continuous (parasitic) current. It's my largest chassis battery parasitic draw.

    It's a bad idea to rewire house battery to power steps. You'll lose your steps if house battery is dead and you take off with steps extended.

    I use my solar controller's secondary output to keep the chassis battery charged. It's time to think about solar.

    Sal

    dougrainer wrote:
    A correctly functioning Electric step will NOT draw any current when retracted or extended. Doug


    READ my second post and it is direct from the manual. Doug
  • Hi,

    I would add the trik-l-start's big brother Amp-l-start

    I'd also look at solar. Your batteries will love it and return the kinder treatment with exceptional life span.
  • If your seeing 23mA you must have something wrong.. perhaps a stuck relay etc. We're getting solar all around eventually. Right now due to financial restraints it's either modify or use.. I'm choosing the use!
  • Then the manual is wrong. I stand by my measurements! My chassis battery quiescent current is 37 mA. That breaks down to:

    Fuse #1 (Espar heater) = 7 mA
    Fuse #3 (Instrument panel) = 5 mA
    Step Controller = 22 mA
    Unaccounted = 3 mA

    Measurements are from '07 Navion (Sprinter based class C MH)

    Sal

    dougrainer wrote:
    Salvo wrote:
    I believe my step controller draws 23 mA continuous (parasitic) current. It's my largest chassis battery parasitic draw.

    It's a bad idea to rewire house battery to power steps. You'll lose your steps if house battery is dead and you take off with steps extended.

    I use my solar controller's secondary output to keep the chassis battery charged. It's time to think about solar.

    Sal

    dougrainer wrote:
    A correctly functioning Electric step will NOT draw any current when retracted or extended. Doug


    READ my second post and it is direct from the manual. Doug
  • Salvo wrote:
    I believe my step controller draws 23 mA continuous (parasitic) current. It's my largest chassis battery parasitic draw.

    It's a bad idea to rewire house battery to power steps. You'll lose your steps if house battery is dead and you take off with steps extended.

    I use my solar controller's secondary output to keep the chassis battery charged. It's time to think about solar.

    Sal

    dougrainer wrote:
    A correctly functioning Electric step will NOT draw any current when retracted or extended. Doug

    I AM electrically challenged on what your draw means in real time. HOW long will that 23 mA take to draw a 800 amp CCA battery dead????
    I ask because we have LOTs of motorhomes on our lot and NONE ever have the chassis go dead even after months on the lot. Doug

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