Electrical issues

I found the problem! The power distribution block I referred to had small, plastic buttons on the hot side that apparently control the other side. Pushed them in and everything come to life- except the refrigerator; think that will be another issue..

Okay, I have 13.3 coming off from the converter; batteries are reading 13.3; cable from battery to Power block is 13.2; post at top of block which leads to control board that has everything listed that's not working is dead. Somehow power is not getting up to the top part of this block. All other posts on this block are live except the two on the that top side. I would post a picture but I couldn't figure out how!

Yes, frig is a house frig that runs just off of D.C. Current.

Fridge not blowing cold air but running???
DO you have a residential fridge OR an RV electric/propane fridge?


Jacks, awning, slides (possibly fridge if RV type) don;t work.........ALL need DC power

Converter..
When plugged into shore power (or gen)
120V AC input..13.2V DC output
Supplies the DC System PLUS charges/maintains battery

No converter function batteery supplies DC System until it goes dead


Simple voltmeter test......
DC Voltage AT converter with AC power connected (shore power ON and Circuit breaker to converter ON)
13.2V DC output to battery (minimum)


DC Voltage check at battery S/B 13.2V DC (minimum also)

Converter DC output low....replace converter

Got good DC at converter but not at battery..then check for blown fuses in battery POS cable to converter

Hookup portable battery charger and SAVE battery from death by recharging it/maintaining charge until you replace converter

Without a voltmeter any diagnosis will be just a guess. I would imagine even the least experienced RV tech would know how to at least do basic voltage checks at the converter's input and output. Many of the items you mentioned require heavy current draw and are many times wired directly to your battery which sounds very depleted at this point.

Run down to Wallys or Harbor Freight and pick up a cheap battery charger to get your batteries back up, for a few bucks more grab a voltmeter too. Let batteries charge for awhile hopefully this will restore some DC items, heavier current draw items will require a deeper charge on the batteries to function properly. There are fuses located near the battery, use voltmeter to trace circuit.

Was it a tech or a parts replacer? The converter should have been checked in the camper, if check OK then no need to remove it.

Time for a long afternoon with a voltmeter and a friend to flip breakers.
As was said before check battery voltage, at batteries, nothing running.
If Voltage is 12.5 or higher, then charging should have happened either from the converter or from to vehicle. Try running TV for a half hour or so, with jumpers to your battery preferably. Get the voltage up to 13.4 or more and then check operation of slides awning etc.

Nothing in the rig has the ability to shut down the converter at will.
I would trust the tech before I would trust CW to test a converter.

Did tech verify power to the rig?
Plug into TV and see if 12 volt items work. Start TV!

You could use a better charger for now to get by. What is the output to the battery?