Forum Discussion
DrewE
Mar 01, 2017Explorer II
You're basically on the right track here.
I would suggest generally thinking about the 120V and the 12V systems separately. There's nothing inherently wrong with showing both on the same diagram, but it can make things a little bit confusing and they really should not interact with each other (aside from a few devices that have both 120V and 12V sides, like the converter).
For the 120V setup, you should have the ground wire switched with the transfer switch, as well as the hot and neutral. The reason is that (for RV use) the ground on the generator should be bonded to the neutral at the generator preferably, while the two must not be bonded together for the shore power inlet. Since you don't quite have a permanently installed generator the bonding at the generator may perhaps be left off but I'd still suggest it as it's easy enough to do with a bonding plug or even in the lead to the generator.
There is no need for the kill switch between the transfer switch and the electric panel. You have a main breaker on the panel that accomplishes exactly the same thing.
The ground from the transfer switch/main power inlet should go to the 120V electric panel, specifically the ground bus bar there, and a separate wire from the load center directly to the chassis to bond it. The instructions for the panel likely describe that pretty well. This is an NEC requirement. It should not go to the DC chassis ground bus bar even though both are chassis ground connections; the AC and DC systems should not be interconnected.
Westend's bus bar suggestion is excellent. For the battery positive, you'll at least have connections going to the power center (for the converter and DC distribution), to the battery isolator for charging, to the inverter, and possibly one or two much lower current connections such as to the battery monitor. Each should be fused as close to the source as practical, the fuse size being determined by the (minimum) wire size, which is determined by the worst-case expected current. If you add solar, that would be another connection to this bus bar. The disconnect switch going to the 12V distribution panel is a good idea.
There is no connection between the battery monitor shunt and the battery positive. The battery monitor itself will have a separate battery positive sense lead. I assume that (and showing only one wire to the generator) are just oddities of making the sketch.
I would suggest generally thinking about the 120V and the 12V systems separately. There's nothing inherently wrong with showing both on the same diagram, but it can make things a little bit confusing and they really should not interact with each other (aside from a few devices that have both 120V and 12V sides, like the converter).
For the 120V setup, you should have the ground wire switched with the transfer switch, as well as the hot and neutral. The reason is that (for RV use) the ground on the generator should be bonded to the neutral at the generator preferably, while the two must not be bonded together for the shore power inlet. Since you don't quite have a permanently installed generator the bonding at the generator may perhaps be left off but I'd still suggest it as it's easy enough to do with a bonding plug or even in the lead to the generator.
There is no need for the kill switch between the transfer switch and the electric panel. You have a main breaker on the panel that accomplishes exactly the same thing.
The ground from the transfer switch/main power inlet should go to the 120V electric panel, specifically the ground bus bar there, and a separate wire from the load center directly to the chassis to bond it. The instructions for the panel likely describe that pretty well. This is an NEC requirement. It should not go to the DC chassis ground bus bar even though both are chassis ground connections; the AC and DC systems should not be interconnected.
Westend's bus bar suggestion is excellent. For the battery positive, you'll at least have connections going to the power center (for the converter and DC distribution), to the battery isolator for charging, to the inverter, and possibly one or two much lower current connections such as to the battery monitor. Each should be fused as close to the source as practical, the fuse size being determined by the (minimum) wire size, which is determined by the worst-case expected current. If you add solar, that would be another connection to this bus bar. The disconnect switch going to the 12V distribution panel is a good idea.
There is no connection between the battery monitor shunt and the battery positive. The battery monitor itself will have a separate battery positive sense lead. I assume that (and showing only one wire to the generator) are just oddities of making the sketch.
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