Electrical questions, alternator? amps? generator?

I don't see any Solar panels in your diagram. Believe me, you'll appreciate not having to run the gennie for hours at a time.

If you plan on using a microwave (700w max) you'll need at least 400Ah's of battery capacity (bare minimum), or it will cause a low voltage event, on anything less then a full charge... I set my inverter's low voltage alarm off yesterday, running the microwave and laptop, on a near full 430Ah (4x6v) bank. And you'll need a 1500-2000w inverter... I have a 1000w, and it's barely able to handle the 1080w draw from my 700w microwave.

I forgot to mention, both the inverter and the short (shore/gen power) ext cord are equipped with gfci receptacles, so the entire 120v system is ground faulted. On shore power I have 15a service, on inverter 8a ( but a larger inverter and battery bank could give you 15a).

I'm about to install on one of these for venting:

12v 6" dia. roof vent

The top (outside) is a smoked grey. Inside trim is white. I haven't decided if it too will be wired to a wallwort, and plugged into a receptacle, or wired directly to the bank?

I also have a range-hood over the stove.

RoyB wrote:
Just a quick comment on your FOG LIGHTS. Be aware that DOT has authority of what SAFETY LIGHTS can be used on the road vehicles and how many can ON at the same time... Be sure to check with DMV on what FOG LIGHTS would be authorized for your use. SAFETY LIGHTS must also be DOT APPROVED types...

We have required DOT SAFETY Inspections in this state and they catch all of these things before passing your inspection.

Roy Ken

I live near Montreal Canada, I don't think they are DOT approved, I will only use the lights when the vehicle is parked in a camping site or in the woods, They are "flood" type lights that I would use one side at a time If needed, the lights in the back I could use backing up at night for whatever reason.

Do not use that drawing for electrical layout
The converter charger connects to a circuit breaker in the panel
NOT the transfer switch
The inverter does not connect directly to the breaker panel there MUST BE a transfer switch between inverter and panel, do as not to have a direct short connecting different power sources

There are much better wiring diagrams on this forum and the web

I have a very simple set-up. Generator sits on a rear deck, with a heavy appliance cord running to a cabinet just behind the driver's seat and under the floor. I also have a short extension cord going from there, up thru the floor, into my inverter cabinet, inside. Outside, I can plug that short ext cord into either the generator's cord, or shore power cord. Inside the inverter cabinet, I have the choice of plugging in to either that short ext cord (for shore/gen power), or the inverter. I wired the bus with regular 14/2 romex, to various receptacles.

For lighting, I used 15w "under cabinet" florescents, in the overheads, under the sink, above the sink, above the dinette, etc., and they are all simply plugged into their own receptacle. My sink pump is wired to a 120v-12v wallwort, which is also plugged into it's own (switched) receptacle.

Any constant 12v draw is wired direct to the battery bank. This way, I can leave the inverter off when not in the camper, or when sleeping. And I always follow the 3 P's, before leaving or going to sleep... power, pump, pressure... I turn off the inverter, turn off power to the pump (just in case I need to leave the inverter on for some reason), and I release any water pressure from the system (again... just in case!).

Just a quick comment on your FOG LIGHTS. Be aware that DOT has authority of what SAFETY LIGHTS can be used on the road vehicles and how many can ON at the same time... Be sure to check with DMV on what FOG LIGHTS would be authorized for your use. SAFETY LIGHTS must also be DOT APPROVED types...

We have required DOT SAFETY Inspections in this state and they catch all of these things before passing your inspection.

Roy Ken