Electrical shocks problem

babock wrote:
I would love to hear your explanation why you think you would get 60V.

With an open ground, the only place you will measure voltage is from hot to neutral.

Is it ok for somebody else to throw in an answer? There are two causes of measurable voltage on an open RV ground. One is the wiring. With the ground wire running parallel to and generally physically in-between the hot and neutral, there's capacitive and inductive coupling between the connectors. The hot tries to pull the ground wire up to 120, and the neutral tries to keep it at zero, so it ends up at the mid point of the two voltages. The other cause is electrical devices in the RV. The switching power converter generates electrical noise that has to go somewhere. Whatever gets absorbed by the metal case is conducted to the ground wire, and internal noise filters can conduct the noise to the ground. One side of the water heater element is at 120 volts and some of that is going to leak to the grounded metal tank. Any electronic device may have a noise filter and/or surge protection that lightly couples the hot and/or neutral to ground. Ideally everything would be balanced and the unconnected ground would float at 60 volts. In the few times I've intentionally tested it, the chassis floated in the 40 volt ballpark.

It's easy to demonstrate any of this. For the wiring, just take a roll of romex 100 feet or more. Connect the 120 volt hot and neutral at one end and leave the ground unconnected. With a high impedance meter (most are high impedance these days) measure between the hot and ground wires, and the neutral and ground wires, and each will read 60 volts.