electrican sent 240v to my rv.

wa8yxm
Obviously you are not an electrician.

The same thing happened to me. It cooked the converter and a small television in the bedroom of MH. The electrician covered it all. Hopefully, it will turn out just as good for you.

Heisenberg.. There is a lot of stuff I knew how to do when I was in school I've not done much of since.. Still, there is a lot I still can do.. But not all of it.. I'd have a problem with some higher Math functions now days without doing research.

Page 2: You are right, An electrician **SHOULD** know how to go to the code, but the question is WILL HE? Or will he just ASSUME, one thing I was taught is how to remember the spelling of ASSUME.. I will not tell you how but I will hint.. -U- Think about that.. The electrician ASSUMES it is a 240 volt outlet.. Never mind it says 125 volts max right on the box and on the outlet itself, he ASSUMES, he does not read.

NEC Article 551. If an Electrician has any legitimate training and holds a license he knows to go to the code book.

calamus wrote:
This is for a CAMPER, Yes there are cases where you could use a 3 wire 240 volt but I have not seen any residential wiring done other than a well (and that is rare) with 240v 3 wire they have not done it for years now.

Times and standards change but here is a short list of things I have seen, some are popular in shops but some folks have a "Home workshop" that is "Industrial strength"

Parent's house the cloths dryer was 3 wire,, I did not sell dryers but I worked in the warehouse from which they were delivered, MANY with 3 wire cords.

Grain/hay elevator was 240 volt 3 wire and 15 amp too boot

Welders

Air compressors

Other machines

And of course the well pump though it was hard wired.

All HOT-HOT-Neutral back then, No safety ground for the dryer

The other gear is hot-hot-safety ground. No neutral.

Many electricians look at that heavy duty TT-30 and what they see, is not what they are holding in their hand.. So they screw up.

This is why I installed my own.. I'm trained.. a bit differently (Electronics) and understand that same connectors can be used all over the voltage chart.

Ever been bit by 500 volts DC... (Been there)

Older ranges and dryers had a jumper between the neutral and ground in these fixed items.
About 1988, this was changed and new construction required the installation of the fourth wire. (neutral).
The older installations are grand-fathered in so you do not have to rewire the house or apartment.
Three wire, two hots and ground are stilled used in many applications.

30 amp hot water here in my house 2 hots and a gr its pretty common for welders in the garage and such. Correct me here but like a electric stove it only needs the neutral if it has a clock. Because the timer and clock run on 120.
I hate that about the trailer I hear about that happening ever once in awhile.

wa8yxm wrote:
Things are improving.. Used to see a new thread like this just about every week, Now I can go months without seeing one.

I always advise folks who think to ask to have a 50 amp outlet put in, not a 30,, Two reasons,

The minor reason: You might wish to upgrade some day, Very easy to upgrade from 50 to 50 or from 50 with a 30 amp breaker to 50.

The REAL reason: See original post.

I have heard, over the years (about 10) I've been here many rumors of parks where the 50 amp outlet was wired wrong, SAFE but wrong with the same leg feeding both sides of the outlet (Well it is not the safest but thankfully the RV makers use wire a bit heavier than absolutly needed so the odds of a disaster go down should that happen)

I have heard of exactly ONE case where a 50 amp outlet had a polarity reversal and sent 240 volts into the RV (And that was about a week ago). (And in an RV park).. But threads like this. Very common.

Damage list: Anything that easts 120 volts possibly including but not limited to:
Radios
Televisions
Sat receivers
DVR/DVD/BlueRAY/VCR/CD players
Some TV antennas (Doubtful but there are a couple)
Converter
Control board on Fridge
Energy Management systems if any.
Microwave
And if you have anything plugged in like a coffee pot
Heat elements in fridge and water heater.
Some air conditioners, epically if running

Would be on my list, basically ANYTHING that uses 120vac power.

On 50 amp service, IF you lose the White Neutral(loose or becomes disconnected), that will introduce 220/240 to the RV, with devastating results. Doug

sue.t wrote:
The inlaws' fridge worked on propane after a similar thing, but would not work on electric, either 120 or 12V. Needed a new fridge.

Also needed to replace a fair bit of wiring in the RV.

A power surge or overvoltage will NOT EVER require a NEW RV absorbsion refer. Maybe a Residential, but not likely. There is NO way that can harm a Cooling unit. Doug

calamus wrote:

ScottG wrote:

calamus wrote:
There should of been a 4th wire if it was 240v.

There's a 30A 240V outlet that only has three conductors that is common for use with welders and compressors. That's probably how he wired it.

even a 30A 240v will have 4 wires hot hot netural ground NOT NECESSATLY !!! Again someone who does not know what he's talking about !!!!!!!!!!!!!
. If you have seen one I would like to see a link the only time I have seen where you use the 3 wire system for 240 volt is in a two wire submersible well pump it only has a hot hot ground coming off the pump so you would combine the netural and ground or just run 3 wires.
WElders, Air Conditioners, Table Saws, to many thing to list that just use two hot wires and a ground wire. NO neutral required.
Like I said this is a major screw up. If it was done at a home then and 3 wires were used I just can see someone with any know how could do this. You would know that as you hooked up in the panel when you didnt have a netural and or a ground wire??? This guy was an idiot.and should lose his/her license but Im guessing he doesnt have
one.

Not saying that the idiot who hooked up his 30 amp 120 volt RV outlet to 240 volts should not have any access to electrical work.