Thanks Mex.
Just re checked my factory service manual. It says the 12v feed from the alternator is to be 14 awg, 2 ground wires are to be 16 awg and other 11 are 18 awg.
The junkyard connectors appear to meet these gauges. I am not exactly sure which wires I have replaced on my current quasi functioning connector. Often I had to add some wire to reach through the socket and used what was on hand which was likely thicker. The splices disappear into the loom and the back of the connector was RTV'd and my memory is not infallible.
This is a very old picture of the connector in question likely from the first time i ever removed it: This was well before I drilled through the socket and inserted bare wire through and hooked it over the tip of the socket. Notice the socket tips are already out of round.
So it appears the previous owner or some tech had been inside this connector before and tried to tighten up the sockets.
Anyway both my junkyard connector aquisitions are in much better condition than this. I still need to get all the old grease out of them. One of them the grease is dark, like they used axle grease. Both took a lot of cleaning just so see that the wire insulation has never been probed, which is why I grabbed 2 of them.
The pics also show the locking mechanism. A slot top and bottom of the connector on the computer, and a corresponding ridge on the wired connector itself.
This is hardly a locking connector, and far from being air or moisture tight.
My longest period of no issues from this connector was when I used some peel and stick roofing material over the connector bridging computer case and wires.
I recently tried to do the same thing as part of a 'get me home immobilization' as this issue reflared half way through a 1750 mile roadtrip, but the pressure was not correct. If both TBI injectors were firing, then the alternator was not charging. Slight tweaks in pressure are required to get both TBI injectors to fire and charge the battery, and it always seemed to stall outright when going downhill and hitting a bump and often I'd first notice by the lack of power brakes as I think the 12v feed to the circuit board was tripped as no lights on the dash would come on. The only visual indicators are my aftermarket mechanical oil pressure gauge and voltmeters dropping.
I have concerns that any conductivity enhancer will bridge the pins and sockets. I do already have some Stabilant 22a on hand. I used it on my road trip when i also cleaned the sockets with a diamond coated fine dremel bit and rebent them to ensure a tight connection, but this actually made the issue worse which made me suspect the pin's solder connection on the circuit board was compromised as reseating took even more force, and pulling on the connector afterward activated injectors and field control.
I have concerns that the connection is hardly air or water tight, or even tight when seated.
Looks like Caig has 2 dozen different products which overlap on their function.
Standard molex connectors seem to have a 25 insertion cycle. This is not standard molex but there has to be some degradation every seating removal cycle.
I kind of don't want to resplice connector until I have new ECM on hand and do both at once.
But I fear stalling somewhere inconvenient in the mean time