Forum Discussion
landyacht318
Sep 14, 2014Explorer
Guess I am hoping that somehow the fan is responsible for the clicking buzz type noise, but I don't really believe it.
Can't seem to locate my mechanics stethoscope. My AGM is now Supposedly 39AH from full, reading 12.1v under a 7.7 amp load. When my monitor reads 45ah from full, i am going to start up the cheapowatt, which is currently floating my 31 at 13.06v and making only 0.03 amps to hold that.
The fan has 2 set speeds, low and high. The difference in sound and air moved was more significant with the provided fan compared to the Noctua. Low was much lower with the Longcheng fan, as would be expeced as it has twice the current draw of the Noctua.
I don't understand how I am getting a sunday delivery of my new 10 turn 1k ohm pot or arctic silver as claimed, but I got a delivery last Sunday too.
I am not sure if I can really cut holes through the case to get an additional heatsink onto the aluminum heatsink behind the mosfets. the screws which pull the aluminum tight to the case might present issues. and attachment to aluminum plate adhesively makes it impossible to lift circuit board from lower portion of case, and mechanically, well i don;t want to touch/damage that thermal pad. i fear last nights heat and tonights heat to come will have made it fight heat sink extraction tomorrow for wiring in the new Pot
I am not sure how well the Aluminum inverter case will Aid thermal transfer from the mosfets. I'd love to order those copper porcupine heatsinks on the last page, but they cost as much as the cheapowatt!
I think Any modifications i add heatsink wise will be enhancements or improvements rather than Ideal.
Been reading the Arctic silver instructions on application. They certainly take things seriously and I will keep them in mind, and use gloves when getting some grease between aluminum plate and casing, and casing and whatever I use on the exterior to assist thermal transfer. Perhaps my crazy friend who can't throw away anything, has something ready to apply to the casing. Might be drilling and tapping the case for a short screw. I have some 18-8 truss head 1/4-20 stainless and tap from another project that should be overkill enough to attach something extra for additional thermal transfer.
Ok time to search again for that stethoscope.
Hmmmm forgot put 45 amp powerpoles on the the GTpower. Perhaps I'll take the AGM below 50% The side of the 30amp power pole contacts was 5 degrees hotter than the side with the 45 amp contacts.
Thanks for the diagram. I'll concentrate further heat related efforts in pulling heat from the case adjacent to the aluminum plate heatsink. Might even mount another fan to blow over them.
What do you think the danger zone temperature is for those mosfets? I could run it with the lid off, and a fan blowing on it, and get my IR gun on the mosfets themselves.
Can't seem to locate my mechanics stethoscope. My AGM is now Supposedly 39AH from full, reading 12.1v under a 7.7 amp load. When my monitor reads 45ah from full, i am going to start up the cheapowatt, which is currently floating my 31 at 13.06v and making only 0.03 amps to hold that.
The fan has 2 set speeds, low and high. The difference in sound and air moved was more significant with the provided fan compared to the Noctua. Low was much lower with the Longcheng fan, as would be expeced as it has twice the current draw of the Noctua.
I don't understand how I am getting a sunday delivery of my new 10 turn 1k ohm pot or arctic silver as claimed, but I got a delivery last Sunday too.
I am not sure if I can really cut holes through the case to get an additional heatsink onto the aluminum heatsink behind the mosfets. the screws which pull the aluminum tight to the case might present issues. and attachment to aluminum plate adhesively makes it impossible to lift circuit board from lower portion of case, and mechanically, well i don;t want to touch/damage that thermal pad. i fear last nights heat and tonights heat to come will have made it fight heat sink extraction tomorrow for wiring in the new Pot
I am not sure how well the Aluminum inverter case will Aid thermal transfer from the mosfets. I'd love to order those copper porcupine heatsinks on the last page, but they cost as much as the cheapowatt!
I think Any modifications i add heatsink wise will be enhancements or improvements rather than Ideal.
Been reading the Arctic silver instructions on application. They certainly take things seriously and I will keep them in mind, and use gloves when getting some grease between aluminum plate and casing, and casing and whatever I use on the exterior to assist thermal transfer. Perhaps my crazy friend who can't throw away anything, has something ready to apply to the casing. Might be drilling and tapping the case for a short screw. I have some 18-8 truss head 1/4-20 stainless and tap from another project that should be overkill enough to attach something extra for additional thermal transfer.
Ok time to search again for that stethoscope.
Hmmmm forgot put 45 amp powerpoles on the the GTpower. Perhaps I'll take the AGM below 50% The side of the 30amp power pole contacts was 5 degrees hotter than the side with the 45 amp contacts.
Thanks for the diagram. I'll concentrate further heat related efforts in pulling heat from the case adjacent to the aluminum plate heatsink. Might even mount another fan to blow over them.
What do you think the danger zone temperature is for those mosfets? I could run it with the lid off, and a fan blowing on it, and get my IR gun on the mosfets themselves.
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