Forum Discussion
Andonso
May 23, 2018Explorer
I believe I said green for the frig. When I removed the 6300 I remember two green wires on the same fuse.
After removing the 6300 I tested all the wires that were connected to fuses for ground continuity i.e. to determine if any of fuse wires were somehow had a path to ground and found two or three wires that beeped when I touched one DMM problem to the wire and the other to the #8 neg- or ground wire.
One of the green wires produced a beep and the other green wire I found had continuity to the frigs pcb 12 volt wire that connects to the PCB to supply power.
I now have the one green frigs wire that supplies 12V to the frigs PCB connected to my Xantrex charger along with several other fused wires such as lighting and other found to be connected to the some of the controls of the range hood such as for water level, hot water heater, etc.
However I just went over and tested the other green wire that was on the same fuse as the other green wire and now it has no continuity to ground.
The only difference is when I previously tested the one of the green wires and found continuity to ground the other green wire wasn't connected to 12 volts to supply power to the frigs pcb.
So either my first test wasn't correct or providing power to the first green wire connected to the frigs pcb effected the second green wire.
I really need to go over and test everything and double check my initial findings, which performed quite quickly.
However the fused wires are currently too short to connect the PD dist panel, so I want to first lengthen them before continuing my tests and find where the other wires go to.
I'm going to take a look at my neighbors fuse panel to determine what size fuses his RV is using.
Continuity is fairly simple it just means there is an electrical path or connection between two points in a circuit.
Most DMMs have a continuity tester built in where all you need to do is touch the probes on two different points in a circuit and if the two point are connected then the DMM will beep.
Continuity testers are used to test for DC ground continuity to determine if a wire has a ground short (path to ground).
While testing for continuity from AC to DC I found the AC neutral to have continuity to DC neg- which is also chassis ground. I guess that's one thing AC and DC have in common is chassis ground
Since AC continually reverses polarity, if the AC is active you should find some very quick beeping when putting a continuity tester between AC neutral and DC neg- ground.
There are NEC codes that state how many grounding rods a pud service requires. At one time services used for RV had an additional grounding rod however NEC changed that so now homes also need to be better grounded with additional grounding rod or rods that need to be spaced so many feet apart, etc.
Poor grounding can sometimes lead to problems with electronics such as e.g. a stereo receiver that produces a humming sound or static noise. What is sometimes helps is installation of a ground loop isolator on the audio inputs. However ground loop isolators don't always work.
After removing the 6300 I tested all the wires that were connected to fuses for ground continuity i.e. to determine if any of fuse wires were somehow had a path to ground and found two or three wires that beeped when I touched one DMM problem to the wire and the other to the #8 neg- or ground wire.
One of the green wires produced a beep and the other green wire I found had continuity to the frigs pcb 12 volt wire that connects to the PCB to supply power.
I now have the one green frigs wire that supplies 12V to the frigs PCB connected to my Xantrex charger along with several other fused wires such as lighting and other found to be connected to the some of the controls of the range hood such as for water level, hot water heater, etc.
However I just went over and tested the other green wire that was on the same fuse as the other green wire and now it has no continuity to ground.
The only difference is when I previously tested the one of the green wires and found continuity to ground the other green wire wasn't connected to 12 volts to supply power to the frigs pcb.
So either my first test wasn't correct or providing power to the first green wire connected to the frigs pcb effected the second green wire.
I really need to go over and test everything and double check my initial findings, which performed quite quickly.
However the fused wires are currently too short to connect the PD dist panel, so I want to first lengthen them before continuing my tests and find where the other wires go to.
I'm going to take a look at my neighbors fuse panel to determine what size fuses his RV is using.
Continuity is fairly simple it just means there is an electrical path or connection between two points in a circuit.
Most DMMs have a continuity tester built in where all you need to do is touch the probes on two different points in a circuit and if the two point are connected then the DMM will beep.
Continuity testers are used to test for DC ground continuity to determine if a wire has a ground short (path to ground).
While testing for continuity from AC to DC I found the AC neutral to have continuity to DC neg- which is also chassis ground. I guess that's one thing AC and DC have in common is chassis ground
Since AC continually reverses polarity, if the AC is active you should find some very quick beeping when putting a continuity tester between AC neutral and DC neg- ground.
There are NEC codes that state how many grounding rods a pud service requires. At one time services used for RV had an additional grounding rod however NEC changed that so now homes also need to be better grounded with additional grounding rod or rods that need to be spaced so many feet apart, etc.
Poor grounding can sometimes lead to problems with electronics such as e.g. a stereo receiver that produces a humming sound or static noise. What is sometimes helps is installation of a ground loop isolator on the audio inputs. However ground loop isolators don't always work.
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