Forum Discussion
Almot
Aug 03, 2014Explorer III
Sorry, misread: the OP meant 4.1/2" high panel mount, not 1/2" thick. No problem, but if you can mount it lower, you do better. I would rather removed the rack and covered the screw holes with roof sealant that I already see there in abundance. I had to lift the panel 3.1/4" to clear the plumbing vent.
1/4" thick or 3/16" aluminum angle will work.
It can be a 2-piece Z-bracket - a 6" piece of 4x4 angle with a piece of 1x1 to make a horizontal lip that you mount the panel on.
My preference was a one-piece L-bracket as shown. With rivet nut in the panel side. The only drawback of L-bracket is that it has to be parallel to the rear wall, not parallel to the sides of trailer. Otherwise the bracket won't align well to the panel side on the sloped roof.
Or maybe I got your plan wrong. If you keep the rack, you can mount the panel on those rails, without additional anchor screws in the roof. Just make sure it has few degrees slop.
1/4" thick or 3/16" aluminum angle will work.
It can be a 2-piece Z-bracket - a 6" piece of 4x4 angle with a piece of 1x1 to make a horizontal lip that you mount the panel on.
My preference was a one-piece L-bracket as shown. With rivet nut in the panel side. The only drawback of L-bracket is that it has to be parallel to the rear wall, not parallel to the sides of trailer. Otherwise the bracket won't align well to the panel side on the sloped roof.
Or maybe I got your plan wrong. If you keep the rack, you can mount the panel on those rails, without additional anchor screws in the roof. Just make sure it has few degrees slop.
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