Extending 10/3 gen cable?

I'm with the new ends group. Buy new ends and attach to what ever length you want(I'd use the entire piece), at about $20 for each connector, your set to go for up to 45 feet and someday you might need that extra 10 feet.

KD4UPL wrote:
Just splicing it in the middle isn't good practice. Just get a male and female and a make another cord. This will give you greater flexibility in total length; you'll have 3 choices: 25, 20, or 45.
#10 is only rated for 30 amps so at 120v you can only put 3,600 watts thru the cord.

Best explanation splicing in the middle of a loose cord violates NEC.

Thanks to all of you for a bunch of great suggestions, much appreciated. I should have thought of this myself, but I didn't. Making another cable by installing 2 new ends, one female and one male is the best idea and most versatile option. As noted above, this will give me 3 options, my original 25 feet, a 20 foot or a 45 foot cord depending on my needs. In terms of load, my yam gen is a ef2800i so could not exceed the cord rating and my other option is 2 Honda eu2000s which combined is 27 amps, again within the cords specs. Will be picking up a new male and female connector today

Thanks again!

Last I knew NEC does not allow cords to be spliced.

theoldwizard1 wrote:
If you are going to put a splice in the middle, it really should be in a metal handy box with a plain cover


Use Romex clamps to prevent the wire from pulling out and use some caulk to seal and holes. For good measure, run a bead of caulk around the edge of the cover before screwing it down.

You can't use Romex clamps on S/O cord. You can use these.

This would be better.
Splice Kits



Product Details
2237A

MANUFACTURER: 3M

DESCRIPTION: CABLE SPLICE KIT, COLD SHRINK, PORTABLE, USE ON 4 CONDUCTOR 12-10 AWG CABLE (UP TO 0.62" CABLE DIAMETER), VOLTAGE RATING UP TO 1000 V, MAXIMUM RECOMMENDED VOLTAGE RATING 600 VOLT

KIT INCLUDES:
1 NEOPRENE, COLD SHRINK TUBE
1 NEOPRENE, FILLER
5 BUTT CONNECTORS
2 STRIPS, SEALING MASTIC
1 ABRASIVE CLOTH
1 ROLL, WHITE PLASTIC ELECTRICAL TAPE
1 INSTRUCTION SHEET

Hi,

I'm in the same boat as BFL13 and time2roll. Add some male and female ends.

It isn't the watts that are important--it is the amps.

BFL13 wrote:
I would put a male and female end on the new piece and just use it as a very long dogbone.

Time2roll beat me by a minute! He is another great mind that thinks alike though. :)

If you are going to put a splice in the middle, it really should be in a metal handy box with a plain cover


Use Romex clamps to prevent the wire from pulling out and use some caulk to seal and holes. For good measure, run a bead of caulk around the edge of the cover before screwing it down.

Just splicing it in the middle isn't good practice. Just get a male and female and a make another cord. This will give you greater flexibility in total length; you'll have 3 choices: 25, 20, or 45.
#10 is only rated for 30 amps so at 120v you can only put 3,600 watts thru the cord.

I would put a male and female end on the new piece and just use it as a very long dogbone.

Time2roll beat me by a minute! He is another great mind that thinks alike though. :)

Do you want a waterproof splice or just get the ends and make up an extension?

Top quality TT-30 connectors.

Heat shrink butt splice

If you splice the cord remove the RV end from the J-box and extend the tail. Don't cut the middle or the plug off. Seal it with heat shrink.

I would make an extension if temporary. Splice if long term.
Actually I would just get a longer pre-molded cord.