Extension on Battery post

Go to your local hardware store and get a 3 or 4" piece of soft copper 1/2" pipe. Pound it flat, drill 2 or 3 holes and use copper, brass or stainless bolts with lock or star washers for attaching lugs you need. Once flat, don't continue to pound as the copper will work harden and become brittle. I've used soft copper water pipe for DC bus bars for years and never had a problem.

dougrainer wrote:
battery terminal extender. EASY solution. Doug

https://www.iboats.com/shop/sierra-starter-stud-extender.html?cm_mmc=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjd_63sLh4gIVjoCfCh3X0gyLEAQYBSABEgKiuvD_BwE

Trying to bring up this web page hangs my 52.5.2 ESR firefox browser. Haven't run into that for a long time.

Thanks Matt. Will follow your advice

In about fifty years of doing boat electrics and all of the last ten before the depression ended the profit side of the work, I never put more than two lugs on a battery post. More than that and you are asking for trouble down the way. If you sit down with a paper and pencil and draw out the plan, you can get all of the jars connected and never have more than two connections on a post and also have the same number and length of jumpers in each string. This may sound stupid, but the balance of a multi-string bank can be upset by milliohms in one string.

If you need a sensor lead to the bank or other very low drain attachment, don't put in on the bank directly, attach it at the other end of the feeder cable where it will not be subject to the corrosion and include a fuse.

Matt

Connecting more than one lug to a battery post is asking for problems. Stud battery buss bars like shown above in this thread, reduce future issues dramatically. I do not use the word 'dramatically' lightly.

I even limit terminal stacking to (2) two per stud on a buss bar. OEM uses more than one per battery terminal but the cables enter the clamp lug and are crimped in the barrel of the lug.

I've run into countless wiring disasters where a customer has a pair of batteries and six or eight extraordinarily corroded wires and cables connected/stacked direct to the lead battery posts. I would loosen the nuts then tell the customer to get lots of boiling baking soda, go back to camp boil water, add the baking soda then soak the ends of the wire in the baking soda. It's a messy, frustrating, time eating job.

To pay me to do it was unwise. Expensive with a capital E. And the cost caused more arguments and bad feelings than any other I can recall.
If
"That's why I am asking YOU to do it".

If they balked and cursed at the cost of labor then it was 'Down The Road Dugan¨.

battery terminal extender. EASY solution. Doug

https://www.iboats.com/shop/sierra-starter-stud-extender.html?cm_mmc=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjd_63sLh4gIVjoCfCh3X0gyLEAQYBSABEgKiuvD_BwE

For me I like to only have ONE battery cable going to each of the two Battery terminals... Positive and Frame ground...

A good BLUE SEA Terminal strip from AMAZON is helpful for multiple connections...


Google image

The ones with the cover like shown here really are best to use for the POSITIVE side connections...

I would use a heavy gauge battery cable with ring terminals (AMAZON) as short as possible between your battery and the terminal strip...

Roy Ken

Your solution will work fine. I use a piece of flattened copper tubing and drill holes in it.