First Top Charge
I finally got my volt/amp meter wired in to my Mega Watt and started my first Top Charge. Initial battery voltage was 13.2v. Mega Watt was set to 15v. Turn-on voltage was 14.8v @ 33a. It quickly went ...
Forum Discussion
The unknown is the manufacturer's original spec gravity/density. With idiot fluorescent-tie paisley-shirts running the show, it's difficult to pre-judge original densities. The Out-Of-State ECL for instance specifies 1.300 specific gravity and that is done SOLELY so they can turbo-charge performance specifications for SALES. Herb Tarlek, mentality running a battery company is sure disaster for the consumer.
I advise contacting the manufacturer. Ask for an "Applications Engineer" a salesman who can count past ten. Ask the salesman for the number associated with OEM density electrolyte. And I do not know if you are using a Freas hydrometer or not, so any advice I offer here is invalid with regard to what your electrolyte is, or isn't doing.
If you do not camp or exercise your batteries where temperatures fall below 50F it may be a wise idea to drop specific gravity by replacing some electrolyte with distilled water. This can be tricky and if a local battery distributor can adjust specific gravity for a reasonable price that may be the smartest move.
For your area which is a bit less hot than Phoenix, an electrolyte value of 1.270 would be appropriate. For perspective, 1.290 electrolyte heated to 110F is as corrosive as 1.400 electrolyte is at 70F. By reducing 1.300 gravity to 1.270 gravity you will lose 7% amp hour specs, but remember you are starting with 1.290 not a more reasonable 1.280
Acid eats lead and just about everything else. This is why, for example AGM batteries which are packed with 1.300 acid MUST USE thick positive plates or suffer the consequences.
Look at the WARRANTY of new RV batteries. See a difference from say, five years ago? Garbage recycled lead and turbocharged acid density take their toll. Pissed-off acid and garbage contaminated lead, now, Herb Tarlek would be dancing with glee especially with the prices of new inferior RV batteries...
Glad I am the hell separated from the industry - the bulk of which is now a disgrace.
I advise contacting the manufacturer. Ask for an "Applications Engineer" a salesman who can count past ten. Ask the salesman for the number associated with OEM density electrolyte. And I do not know if you are using a Freas hydrometer or not, so any advice I offer here is invalid with regard to what your electrolyte is, or isn't doing.
If you do not camp or exercise your batteries where temperatures fall below 50F it may be a wise idea to drop specific gravity by replacing some electrolyte with distilled water. This can be tricky and if a local battery distributor can adjust specific gravity for a reasonable price that may be the smartest move.
For your area which is a bit less hot than Phoenix, an electrolyte value of 1.270 would be appropriate. For perspective, 1.290 electrolyte heated to 110F is as corrosive as 1.400 electrolyte is at 70F. By reducing 1.300 gravity to 1.270 gravity you will lose 7% amp hour specs, but remember you are starting with 1.290 not a more reasonable 1.280
Acid eats lead and just about everything else. This is why, for example AGM batteries which are packed with 1.300 acid MUST USE thick positive plates or suffer the consequences.
Look at the WARRANTY of new RV batteries. See a difference from say, five years ago? Garbage recycled lead and turbocharged acid density take their toll. Pissed-off acid and garbage contaminated lead, now, Herb Tarlek would be dancing with glee especially with the prices of new inferior RV batteries...
Glad I am the hell separated from the industry - the bulk of which is now a disgrace.
