Forum Discussion
- camperpaulExplorer
pnichols wrote:
Not related to the OP's inquiry, but ... in the photo that panel looks a bit rigid. How do you kindof fold it up so as to store it in an RV?
Phil,
That panel is intended to be glued to the roof of the RV. - greenrvgreenExplorerThis panel works well as a stand-alone panel set out against a tree trunk, a low hill, a picnic table, or a tent. It has a series of six grommets on the edges and can be tied off for support in breezes.
While it is flexible (as shown in the OP's pix), it is not much more flexible than that. The rollable panels that are out there now are MUCH more flexible, although not nearly as efficient. This panel's efficiency rating is just under 20%, which I believe rivals or beats many of the glass-encased panels (I promised I wouldn't call them "boat anchors" anymore).
IMO it's a shame to glue this panel down. It is light enough to set out in the full sun while your RV sits in the cool shade. And because it's easier to reposition than a lawn gnome or even a flamingo, you can keep it aimed directly at the sun, something you can never do in a flat install.
OP--I haven't made any supports for the panels yet, since I'm mostly camping near trees and/or hillsides (or at least picnic tables) and so I have found plenty of ready-made supports. I imagine just some lengths of dowling attached to cord looped through the grommets out to do the trick.
For me, these panels have revolutionized my solar energy harvesting, and I'm already laying in preparations to double my capacity, from 200w to 400w--all of it set out in a clearing 50 or even 100 feet from my RV or tent. - xzyHollyxyzExplorerOP HERE.
The maximum recommended bending angle for this panel is 30 degrees.
I was looking to make something similar to this. However, I LOVE your dowel idea! WAY less complicated - just use the diameter of the dowel or PVC pipe to lift it off the ground. THANKS. - greenrvgreenExplorerFor the sake of clarity, the panels in the OP's latest pic are NOT Renogy bendables, but Powerfilm foldable. The Powerfilm cells are semi-flexible and bonded to heavy tarp, so it is fully foldable between the cells, every 9 inches or so.
The Powerfilm are VERY expensive, not very efficient, but easy to pack in tight spaces. Bexause they are foldable, they must be supported at mutiple points, or they will simply fold up into a ball in a stiff breeze.
The Renogy panel that the OP pictured at the top of this thread can be propped up at one point in the middle, such as against a 5-gallon can. While it will sag a bit at the edges, it will wtill be pointed at the sun.
I would suggest just trying them out before I committed to any particular install design. - xzyHollyxyzExplorerThanks! I was wondering why they needed a center support! Dowels will save me a bunch of work and time - making something that would take you guys just a few minutes! But I'm learning...
Thanks for the clarification. - RoyBExplorer III sure like the idea of being alittle flexible. Those would fit perfect around my slight slope I have on my trailer roof. Is there any reason for NOT gluing the panels directly to the roof. Seems like I have heard your need to have a small air space between the panel and the roof for heat build up???
I am just now thinking of installing solar panels to my POPUP trailer roof and seem to leaning towards using aluminum uni-strut material on the edges of my POPUP roof and using solid frame type solar panels.
A typical 120WATT SOLAR PANEL should produce between 12VDC and 19VDC at 4-5AMPS DC current depending on the manufacturer.
I am just curious if there is anything 'BAD' performance wise when gluing the flexible panels directly to the roof.
Roy Ken - NinerBikesExplorer
RoyB wrote:
I sure like the idea of being alittle flexible. Those would fit perfect around my slight slope I have on my trailer roof. Is there any reason for NOT gluing the panels directly to the roof. Seems like I have heard your need to have a small air space between the panel and the roof for heat build up???
I am just now thinking of installing solar panels to my POPUP trailer roof and seem to leaning towards using aluminum uni-strut material on the edges of my POPUP roof and using solid frame type solar panels.
A typical 120WATT SOLAR PANEL should produce between 12VDC and 19VDC at 4-5AMPS DC current depending on the manufacturer.
I am just curious if there is anything 'BAD' performance wise when gluing the flexible panels directly to the roof.
Roy Ken
A typical 120W panel, aimed directly at the sun, spring and summer, should get you close to 6 or 7 amps, for 5 hours a day, minimum, usually more.
What is the OP using this for? If for charging batteries, a charge controller will be necessary to control the charge voltage to the battery. - greenrvgreenExplorerFWIW the Renogy panels being discussed put out 19-20 volts at 5.6 amps or so max, if memory serves. 12v at 5 amps or 60 watts from a PWM charger, is the reading I get starting at seven in the morning until five pm, when the sun goes behind the trees. In the open it's continued easily until 7 pm.
Ten or twelve hours of max rated output, simply by aiming the panels every hour. - xzyHollyxyzExplorerOP HERE.
I am waiting on delivery for this charge controller:
I'll use the panel to keep my Group 27 trailer battery charged. I'm quite frugal with usage; however, I understand that in my new Fun Finder trailer, that the fridge in the slide, because it's in the slide, has a fan for whatever reason (Atwood Helium fridge (been nothing but trouble)). I imagine that could suck a battery fast? - xzyHollyxyzExplorer
greenrvgreen wrote:
FWIW the Renogy panels being discussed put out 19-20 volts at 5.6 amps or so max, if memory serves. 12v at 5 amps or 60 watts from a PWM charger, is the reading I get starting at seven in the morning until five pm, when the sun goes behind the trees. In the open it's continued easily until 7 pm.
Ten or twelve hours of max rated output, simply by aiming the panels every hour.
I'm looking at the sheet that came with the panel yesterday...
21.7 Open Circuit Voltage
6.10A Short Circuit Current
19.9% Cells Efficiency
5.70A Optimum Operating Current
17.7V Optimum Operating Voltage
I can scan it and post, if anyone wants me to.
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