Freezer works, fridge does not.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Insufficient cooling on both heat sources is one of three things
*Ventilation ----- draft/airflow is obstructed across backside of fridge (insultaion fallen down, top vent obsctructed/birds nests, etc)
*Thermistor ------ even when ohms are within range they still can be bad
(Unplug and run firdge for 12 hrs minimum then check temps)
*Cooling Unit ---- obstruction/blockage between freezer coil and food compartment coil. Freezer gets ALL of the cooling effect and food compartment is minimal.
(Unplug electric heat element leads from lower circuit board. Plug the leads DIRECTLY into the 120VAC Outlet and run fridge for 12 hrs minimum. This is 'forced' cooling....bypassing ALL controls. If cooling unit functions both compartments will get COLD. If cooling unit obstructed only freezer will continue to get cold.

Hopefully...bad thermistor.
Replace with a 'Snip-The-Tip'

Otherwise...cooling unit DEAD



AS for MOVING thermistor on FIN.
YOUR Model has Temp Settings (1-5)
Put the themistor BACK where it was (OEM Position--middle of fin)
Make sure the tip is just protruding above top of clip and it is secure against the Fin

Moving the thermistor UP/DOWN is for those Models that use an 'AUTO TEMP CONTROL' (no temp setting adjustments)
NOT your Model

I forgot to mention, I verified that the chimney did not have any obstructions a long time ago when I first started troubleshooting this. I have been lazy and this has been a problem for a while now. Beyond that, the area behind the fridge is quite clean and unobstructed. Insulation is where it should be, no bird nests :), the screen on the top vent is intact, checked when I installed the fan back there running to a solar panel on top of the vent cover, so nothing has gotten in there to chew things up. So I am pretty sure I do not have an external obstruction.

I'm having trouble with the concept that the thermistor could provide the correct resistance and still be bad. Its function is to provide a certain number of ohms of resistance back to the board. If I plugged my multimeter into the ends of the wires where they plug into the board and the ohms check out, how can the thermistor still be bad? Believe me, I WANT it to be a bad thermistor. But I don't see how. Further detail on that: When I first hooked up my meter the fridge temp was about 40 (had been 35 until I opened the door), and the thermistor was reading about 6500 ohms roughly. I wrapped my hand around the tip of the thermistor for about 30 seconds to warm it up and checked the reading again and it had dropped to about 5000-ish. Then I dunked it in the ice water and watched the numbers on the meter start to rise. After about 10 minutes it had settled at 9370, with the occasional twitch of about 10 ohms either direction.

I will check the fridge tonight after the thermistor has been unplugged for 12 hours.
If the fridge has not responded as expected for a bad thermistor I will see about plugging those leads directly into 120V (I will remove shore power first, plug them in there carefully, and then re-apply power.) and give it another 18 hours. Would just do 12 but ambient temps are pretty low this time of year here so I want to see if it stays cold when the sun comes up. Should have gotten around to this testing sooner.

Thank you for the additional testing steps to try. And I'll put my thermistor and clip back where it belongs, thanks.