Forum Discussion
Old-Biscuit
Oct 01, 2019Explorer III
hilke40 wrote:
It could still be the thermistor, even if ohms are okay as mine' 4 door was intermittent. Mine would always cool down when first turned on but would warm up sometimes a day later, or several days later, so the ohms were probably right. part of the time. It would be 0 in freezer and fridge would run 47 to 52. On mine the cooling unit test is to plug a working thermistor and leave the thermistor out in the compartment outside. It showed overnight 20 in top and 25 in bottom and froze a cup of water solid. On some models of dometic, unhooking the thermistor will make it cool constantly. There is a repairman from Washington on you tube that has a great video on how to install the upper fans, and baffles to direct air, as he says one manufacture doesn't have air directed correctly and the will never cool properly. My dealer thought I needed new control board, but the thermistor is what fixed it.
Your model will competely shutdown if thermistor is unplugged....
OPS....thermistor unplugged casues fridge to continuously cool.
OP Freezer at 10*F and food compartment at 45*F running with thermistor unplugged.....cooling unit has obstructions.
Running continuously with thermistor unplugged should have resulted in a freezer at 0*F (or lower) and food compartment at 32*F
'Burpping', 'flipping' 'rolling' a fridge to clear an obsruction is a stop-gap/band-aid at best.
Obsructions are due to the sodium chromate turning to crystals from overheating. The crystals are hard as weld slag/permanent (do not dissolve/go back into solution----just get banged loose and move somewhere else inside cooling unit tubing)
If you go to all the trouble of removing fridge....FIX it
**New cooling unit----Compressor system conversion----new fridge
WHy do it all over again?
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