Fridge heating up when traveling

Already tried the air foil kit does nothing, still heats up, the interior of the fridge heats up not the fridge rear parts, the flame is not blowing out it is still lit when I stop power is on in the camper, I run with the power to the fridge (battery power) but running on propane, just a pain in the posterior

j-d wrote:



You ARE leaving the House Battery in your Trailer ON while traveling, correct? Those modern fridges have a "Lock IN" feature where they'll run the gas flame as long as the LP lasts, even if no battery power. No thermostatic regulation either, so freezing the whole fridge compartment is also a possibility. BUT if you turn the 12 VDC power off, the fridge locks IN, then blows out, it won't try to light again till you restore 12 VDC...

If you arrive with flame lit, coils hot, fridge warm inside, then it's an install/venting problem or defect in the fridge.

Loss of DC voltage......propane gas valve goes close!
DC Voltage is what 'hold' gas valve open. Safety feature. No DC....No flame.


You are having good results by blocking lower vent when traveling....
Dometic Air Baffle Kit
Kit has tubing to block 'portion' of lower vent openings and a burner area shield. That's it.

Kit came about due to flame blowing out on TCs.
Common problem due to the way wind gets disrupted by differences in truck/cab and camper vs straight air flow down side of a trailer.

Suggest you go to Chris Bryant's Site. Find your model and look at the installation instructions. You'll see some very specific DO's and DONT's, some of which involve whether your fridge is in a slide or not.

Also please look at the fridge's lighting algorithm. Most modern Two-Way RV fridges (LP Gas/120 VAC) will make several tries to light LP. Those tries may be a series of attempts. But in the face of continued failure, the lighting process "locks out" and the user has to cycle the switch Off >>> On to get a new series of attempts. So... if the flame is blowing out, the fridge should be trying to re-light. After a long drive, with flame blowing out repeatedly, you might find the flame lit BUT the fridge warm inside when you stop. When you drive with the fridge in LP mode, is it lit when you stop? Are the external coils of the cooling unit warm/hot?

You ARE leaving the House Battery in your Trailer ON while traveling, correct? Those modern fridges have a "Lock IN" feature where they'll run the gas flame as long as the LP lasts, even if no battery power. No thermostatic regulation either, so freezing the whole fridge compartment is also a possibility. BUT if you turn the 12 VDC power off, the fridge locks IN, then blows out, it won't try to light again till you restore 12 VDC...

If you arrive with flame lit, coils hot, fridge warm inside, then it's an install/venting problem or defect in the fridge.

There is a kit from Dometic to shield the flame from wind. It also includes a fusible link that may help in preventing catastrophic over heating (other wise known as a fire).

I'd suggest looking at adding the ARP module, too. That way the need to be almost perfectly level is reduced.

Sounds like your flame keeps going. You might need to look into a Dometic air foil kit/ baffle kit.

EDIT: When you say your fridge is "heating up", do you mean that the inside temps are going up or that your fridge itself is literally getting hot? (Should have asked that first).

you have a problem
if you can have the dealer look at it
in the mean time, with the fridge vent hatch removed
take a look up behind the fridge, you should be able to see all the way to the roof vent
your looking for obstructions, the hot air is not rising and exiting
whats on your roof
any chance something is rear of the fridge roof vent causing an air dam, forcing fresh air down into the vent and blocking the rising and exhausting like it should