We're still blowing thermocouple fuses. We finally went to talk to an RV service guy and he said we shouldn't be running gas when traveling as it's next to the fuel tank. He said switch to 12 volt. We don't have a 3 way fridge. We only have 2 way. He that's the problem!Do we have the wrong fridge installed? It's a Dometic DM 2652.How many of you have a 3 way vs 2 way and how many travel with the gas off. This is very inconvenient on long trips. Any time we travel more than an hour, or if it's hot, we blow that fuse.Have spoken numerous times with Dometic and they've tried to help. This last time they sent us a baffle that looks like a sinner blade on a wire. We have it already.Please assist if you have any answers. This is so frustrating.

Mines two way. Always leave mine running on propane while going down the road. They say to turn it off when refueling. I don't do that either. If your that concerned you can run the generator as well. I do this when the temps are 95 plus outside primarily to run the coach AC's, otherwise on propane mode.

I'm assuming you mean running on propane while traveling. I have ran my fridge on propane while traveling on the last 2 rigs I've owned with no problems whatsoever. Sounds like some sort of electrical issue if continually blowing fuses. I say get a different service guy. I have a lot of RV friends from various clubs I'm associated with and all of those have 2 way fridges and travel long distances on propane with no issues.

It seems like you need a new RV service center.I run my refrigerator on gas all the time, except when buying gas. My fuel filler is way in the back, and the refrigerator on the passenger side, near the front entrance. Air from wind should not be blowing out the flame. Even if it does, then the sparker should relight it, and everything should be normal.Good luck,Fred.

I have a 2601, which is a three way. I never run it on 12-volts, and always run it on propane while traveling. My fridge in a 1988, and I have had it since 2004.I kind of think maybe you should find a different RV service guy. To say you should not run it while traveling because it is close to the fuel tank suggest to me he is not the sharpest tool in the shed. If I read correctly, you have a diesel, not gas. You would be hard pressed to light the diesel fuel with the fridge at 50 MPH. Actually, I doubt you could ignite the diesel at a dead stop. I would have to look at what you have to suggest a fix. I will say, the 12-volt mode is very inefficient, and will really tax your 12-volt system.Wayne

Moved from the TC Forum for better exposure.WayneModerator

fridge issues STILL -UPDATE | Good Sam Community

56 Replies

wasatchmtnatvr
Explorer
Oct 03, 2015
wasatchmtnatvr wrote:
I'm flying blind, my computer won't show your posted pictures. I think backdraft downward thru chimney while traveling is causing lp flame to burn horizontal triggering thermal fuse to interrupt 12vdc power to refer. I assume a dual sidewall vented system, if it is try taking the 3 pieces of air deflector kit that were on lower sidewall vent and put them on upper sidewall vent to see if backdraft is reduced. Also does german cooling unit come with a chimney sleeve on top of chimney where you drop the spiral baffle into and hang wire on lip? That item may minimized direct drafts into chimney? If only 1 sidewall vent and top vent on roof, could you try Camco lid on oem dometic base as they are a much greater airflow restrictor than oem dometic lid. Or Norcold base and lid as they are very front aerodynamic compared to dometic. Just thinking out loud.!
wasatchmtnatvr
Explorer
Oct 03, 2015
I'm flying blind, my computer won't show your posted pictures. I think backdraft downward thru chimney while traveling is causing lp flame to burn horizontal triggering thermal fuse to interrupt 12vdc power to refer. I assume a dual sidewall vented system, if it is try taking the 3 pieces of air deflector kit that were on lower sidewall vent and put them on upper sidewall vent to see if backdraft is reduced. Also does german cooling unit come with a chimney sleeve on top of chimney where you drop the spiral baffle into and hang wire on lip? That item may minimized direct downward drafts into chimney? If only 1 sidewall vent and top vent on roof, could you try Camco lid on oem dometic base as they are a much greater airflow restrictor than oem dometic lid. Or Norcold base and lid as they are very front aerodynamic compared to dometic. Just thinking out loud.!
wasatchmtnatvr
Explorer
Oct 03, 2015
wasatchmtnatvr wrote:
campn4walleye wrote:
We FINALLY got to take our longer trip. Once again, the thermocouple fuse blew.

This time DH did something differently (tell us if we made a mistake). He turned the fridge off while fueling and then turned it back on. He thinks maybe he started driving too soon after he started it and didn't let it really get started. Luckily, we had an extra fuse (our last). Is this possibly the reason? VERY DOUBTFUL. Now on the way home it ran perfectly. What do you think? We drove for 3 hours. LUCKY coincidence. I don't think problem is resolved yet. Have you tried dometic camper package lower vent wind restrictor package. It is 3 metal pieces that minimize turbulence on flame. They squeeze onto lower vent. It baffles approximately 40% of open space. Sorry, on your page 3 post I see you already have this kit installed.
wasatchmtnatvr
Explorer
Oct 03, 2015
campn4walleye wrote:
We FINALLY got to take our longer trip. Once again, the thermocouple fuse blew.

This time DH did something differently (tell us if we made a mistake). He turned the fridge off while fueling and then turned it back on. He thinks maybe he started driving too soon after he started it and didn't let it really get started. Luckily, we had an extra fuse (our last). Is this possibly the reason?

Now on the way home it ran perfectly. What do you think? We drove for 3 hours.

How many of you turn off the fridge during fueling. We've heard it's safer but never done it until that time. Didn't need fuel on the way home.
campn4walleye
Explorer
Oct 03, 2015
We FINALLY got to take our longer trip. Once again, the thermocouple fuse blew.

This time DH did something differently (tell us if we made a mistake). He turned the fridge off while fueling and then turned it back on. He thinks maybe he started driving too soon after he started it and didn't let it really get started. Luckily, we had an extra fuse (our last). Is this possibly the reason?

Now on the way home it ran perfectly. What do you think? We drove for 3 hours.

How many of you turn off the fridge during fueling. We've heard it's safer but never done it until that time. Didn't need fuel on the way home.
AnEv942
Nomad
Aug 21, 2015
Id bend back the 2 sheet metal fingers, slid the fuse away from the burner, reclamp. Hard to say, maybe half an inch. Id leave the fuse end toward flame. If its actually flame or its heat blowing fuse and you have just the wire kinda defeats fuse.

Id also take the access panel shields with you, just in case road air blows out flame. IF you do still blow the fuse, I assume your jumper wire that bypasses lower thermal fuse goes from the snap disk on flue back to refer, retaining its value.

Hopefully in all this problem resolved.
Reddog1
Explorer II
Aug 21, 2015
Now that you have more info, it may be worth contacting the manufacture again.

Wayne
campn4walleye
Explorer
Aug 21, 2015
Can you tell us how far left? Do you think just flipping it would work like previously suggested?

We are still hoping that removal of the 2 air foil baffles and leaving the lower in place will fix the issue. We leaving on Monday for a week long trip. No web, but may try to post an update.
dougrainer
Nomad
Aug 21, 2015
Chris Bryant wrote:
I'll go out on a limb here- understand I cannot recommend anyone do this- but if it were mine, I would relocate that flame fuse a bit farther from the burner- even just installing it backwards, so the fuse part is sticking out to the left instead of right. In my opinion, that would still be in the area it needed to be in case of catastrophic failure, but a bit away from the flame.
That fuse setup was kind of a band-aide to address a production problem with the caravan 95 style units, not the Siegen units.

That setup is exactly what the Dometic refer recall was about. Both the Flame Thermal and the Snap Disc were for possible fire from a leaking cooling unit. If the cooling unit caught fire from the LP flame, hopefully that back wall thermal wire would burn and stop the flow to the control board and not supply the burner with LP to continue the flame fire. SOOOO, If that thermal fuse is being destroyed, I would think the flame is being pushed rearward by the in transit operation. In other words, that fuse IS doing its job, just not for a fire, but a flame out of spec. Since he has a 2001 model RV, then I will bet the Dometic recall was installed and whoever installed it, put that Thermal fuse in the wrong location. It needs to be moved to the LEFT a little more. Doug
Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Aug 21, 2015
I'll go out on a limb here- understand I cannot recommend anyone do this- but if it were mine, I would relocate that flame fuse a bit farther from the burner- even just installing it backwards, so the fuse part is sticking out to the left instead of right. In my opinion, that would still be in the area it needed to be in case of catastrophic failure, but a bit away from the flame.
That fuse setup was kind of a band-aide to address a production problem with the caravan 95 style units, not the Siegen units.

Forum Discussion

fridge issues STILL -UPDATE

56 Replies

About Technical Issues

Related Content

Dometic 2-Way fridge repair issues

Fridge Issues

Norcold Model 611 Fridge problem

Dometic Servel RGE400 fridge too cold

Troubleshoot fridge problem...