dblack440 wrote:
My thoughts exactly Doug, I could see the a defective board having a different problem but not the exact same problem. And the "tech" at the RV dealership told me that the thermisor only controlled temp on the AC side which I also had a hard time believing ( and still don't) and that's why I don't want to just throw another part at it...The only thing that had me doubting myself was when I sent a long email to Dometic and they were the ones who said it had to be the thermisor because there was nothing left...what really baffles me the most is that if I shut the fridge off totally and restart it the **** thing will cool again for about the same period of time. It makes absolutely no sense. So if I just unplug the thermisor from the board on AC and let it run for like 24 hours it should freeze down correct? Would that help prove anything?
Yes, it would. A Defective Thermister will still Test(Ohm) out to spec. BUT, all it does is sense the evap fin temp. Then sends a signal to the control board to either shut OFF because the temp has been reached or to start a cool cycle. NOTHING ELSE. So, whether it is LP or 120, the refer will respond to what the Thermister tells it. IF it functions on LP, then it will function on 120. Now, that is why I want you to run the 120 direct. Also, I am amazed that Dometic Service would attempt to help you. Their policy is to NOT help diag problems whether warranty or out of warranty unless you are a RV Tech or Service Center. They will help in operation of their appliances, but not diag and repair. Doug
