Fridge only staying cold for 12-14 hours on AC

dblack440 wrote:
It's not in a slide room, I haven't tried moving it to the next element sleeve ( didn't know it had more then one) I installed it in the same one when I replaced it (same wattage, 325 that the old one was) and the element was the first thing I changed when it started this almost a year ago, and my old one actually still tested good...Just went with what the RV tech told me was likely wrong.. Nothing I have done including the new board ever changed the symptoms. And I haven't checked amps. As far as the fan, that was the one thing I noticed. The fan would just run hours once it quit cooling and would only shut off if I shut the fridge off.. Hope that helps

This is what I told you on 5/2/2017:B Doug

"If it works on LP but does NOT on 120, the Thermister is NOT your problem. The Thermister dose the same thing regardless of power source. It could be LOW 120 power supply or the tube the heating element is installed in is not secure to the burner flue. I would try the other heating element sleeve. Dometic's have 2 heating element sleeves." Doug

I'm showing I believe it was 121.4 Volts coming into the board. I'm going to pull the fridge back out this weekend and check the flue and I'll try it in the other sleeve. I just put the new one in exactly as the old one was.. So what's your theory Doug as to why that would allow it to cool for my usual 14-16 hour period and most recently nearly 5 day period before it decides to quit cooling again? I'm just trying to rationalize this.

dblack440 wrote:
I'm showing I believe it was 121.4 Volts coming into the board. I'm going to pull the fridge back out this weekend and check the flue and I'll try it in the other sleeve. I just put the new one in exactly as the old one was.. So what's your theory Doug as to why that would allow it to cool for my usual 14-16 hour period and most recently nearly 5 day period before it decides to quit cooling again? I'm just trying to rationalize this.

Have no clue. But, the reason for the swap of sleeve is to remove the possibility the original sleeve is not welded/secure to the burner flue tube. Getting hot, it may be slightly separating and NOT transferring the full heat to the burner flue. Doug

Pulled fridge this morning. Checked the flue,removed the element to look for second sleeve. This model, DM2652RBX only has one sleeve. Everything looks perfect. Reinstalled the fridge and made sure all connections are clean and tight. Turned back on AC and it's cooling down as normal. Nothing was broke loose in the flue. Waiting to see how long it stays cooling.

It would be interesting to connect a 120 volt clock between 1 of the 120 heating element wires. So, when the refer is calling for 120 heat, that clock comes on. You then set the clock to current time and then see if the clock ever loses time. That would tell you the board is stopping power to the element. Of course, IF the refer reaches temp, then the 120 power to the element and clock will shut off. That is why you would need a mechanical clock if you can still find one. You could determine how much time the 120 was off or if it stayed off. Doug

PS, I would think a standard mechanical xmas light timer with the pull and set pins would be perfect. You leave out the OFF pins and leave it on all the time unless power is interrupted. You would wire from the control board to a 2 pin 120 plug. plug in the timer and then make a adapter pins to plug the 120 element into the output of the timer. Set the timer at what ever current time and let it go.

That's an interesting thought Doug. But what if I just wait till it starts heating back up say like into the upper forties or fifties, at that point it should be calling for cooling and I should have 120 at the wires to the element right? I should only have 120 power to the element when it's calling for cooling correct? Or am I wrong on that?