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Limoges_Camper's avatar
Oct 26, 2014

Fridge power consumption and operation

Hi there,

I am in the process of installing an inverter and making some automatic circuitry to make the transition between shore power and battery power fully automatic. In this process, I am going to turn off certain circuits that have a high drain on power.

What puzzles me a bit, is the fridge: there is a switch that has 3 positions: auto, off, and gas. So far, I figure the way to go is if you are on shore power, stick it to "auto". If you aren't, then stick it to gas. What I don't is what happens if the shore power goes out while it's in the "auto" position. I'm concerned that it will draw too much current from the 12 VDC side of things, and will quickly drain the battery.

Does anyone have any figures on what the fridge should be drawing from the 12VDC side? I understand that in the gas position, the fridge still required 12 VDC to operate the ignition and possibly gas valve. I assume that when it is in the "auto" position, that it uses an electric element to replace the heat from the propane flame.

Here is a wiring diagram of what I am proposing. As you can see, it will automatically switch to inverter power if the power drops off on the shore power side (and if the inverter's on/off switch is in the "on" position).

26 Replies

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  • korbe wrote:
    My frig has those same 3 settings. Auto allows it to switch to gas if the 110 power is interupted, and when on gas it stays on gas. No 12-volt except a little while on gas and not connected to shore power.


    RLS7201 wrote:
    Limoges_Camper wrote:
    What I don't is what happens if the shore power goes out while it's in the "auto" position.


    As the word "auto" implies, the refrigerator automatically switches to gas if you loose shore power. And will return to AC when shore power resumes.


    Richard


    thanks guys!

    I just need to figure out where to place an 8th relay that will disable the 120VAC supply to the fridge when in inverter mode. I'll need to look into the Dometic user manual to figure this part out.

    I don't care if the water heater looses heat, but I do care if the batteries are run dry because of the fridge, and then food spoils.
  • AnEv942 wrote:
    DC heater element is refrigerator model dependant with varied wattages. Just look up replacement element for your unit. Our dometic draws 17amps on DC element.
    If your controls doesnt allow selecting AC verses auto. simply manually unplug (or add switch) the DC element from board (could incorporate that output as a warning light that power is off or DC element off/unplugged).

    Some units will cycle into DC in auto mode. Mine isnt supposed to but it has, twice. I cannot manually repeat but went from gas to DC when it emptied the tank, then drained the batteries while away.


    So there is a 120VAC as well as a 12 VDC heating element in yours?
  • My frig has those same 3 settings. Auto allows it to switch to gas if the 110 power is interupted, and when on gas it stays on gas. No 12-volt except a little while on gas and not connected to shore power.
  • Limoges_Camper wrote:
    What I don't is what happens if the shore power goes out while it's in the "auto" position.


    As the word "auto" implies, the refrigerator automatically switches to gas if you loose shore power. And will return to AC when shore power resumes.


    Richard
  • DC heater element is refrigerator model dependant with varied wattages. Just look up replacement element for your unit. Our dometic draws 17amps on DC element.
    If your controls doesnt allow selecting AC verses auto. simply manually unplug (or add switch) the DC element from board (could incorporate that output as a warning light that power is off or DC element off/unplugged).

    Some units will cycle into DC in auto mode. Mine isnt supposed to but it has, twice. I cannot manually repeat but went from gas to DC when it emptied the tank, then drained the batteries while away.

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