Fridge runs on AC but not LP

Dumb question, but did you check the manual shutoff?



If that unit has had all of the upgrades done, then the ignitor and gas valve should get power at the same time (originally, the ignitor was powered by the blue wire coming out of the circuit board- that was changed with the ground upgrade outlined in the infamous Bulletin R70/4b.

Thank you all. I'll check ohm reading on solenoid and the P3 terminal 2 voltage and let you know the results.

This also happened to me on my Coachman Class C - 1) check to see if refrigerator is on recall list and make certain the work has been done. The older refrigerators require improvements to prevent fire. Had mine done at CampingWorld. 2) My LP began working after the replacement of a small component (square & white) just below the fuse area (as I recall). 2 screws (?) a couple of wires reconnected and it was done. Could be called a LP gas ignitor - bought it on Amazon. I made a video about it: start about 4.30 minutes in: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqYYyjA8z5c&index=105&list=PL_Rbi5sVphhtudnrKB65Y1SWXyMuUx_FF

There are several tests that can be done on the solenoid.
First is a continunity test.. Disconnect wires, use ohm-meter, alas I do not know the proper reading but open circuit = failed,, So do some other readings. but I'm nto sure what is correct.

The "EAR" test.. have your partner switch it to GAS (This works best if it's warm) LISTEN, you should hear both the CLICK of the solenoid and the SNAP of the ignighter (And see the sparks but do not spend a lot of time looking at those)

Other tests are more dangerous and thus I hesitate to suggest them.

ScottG wrote:
You can take the circuit board to most larger parts departments and they will have a test fixture to test it.

While they have testers for certain Water Heater and Furnace Modules, they do not make a accurate tester for refer boards. Especially the type board the OP has. Doug

You can test the gas valve solenoid by removing one of the connectors and then measure resistance across the 2 terminals...........S/B 44-53 ohms (49 +/- 10%)

Also check that you have DC voltage on lower module at P3 terminal 2 (bottom right quadrant)during ignition trial (when sparking is going on)

Hot wire the gas valve, and light it w/ a striker. If it burns, then you almost know its the control board.

You can take the circuit board to most larger parts departments and they will have a test fixture to test it.

Did it ever while you had it or is this something that just started?

Stove and water heater work fine.