Fridge Temp Control Question
I have a Dometic S630 absorption fridge from 1991. AFAIK newer ones work the same way. Apparently the freezer cools down and then eventually the fridge cools down to its proper temp range just above...
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The 120v heater element rusted out and is rusted stuck in, so there is no way to replace it. One of the guys here described how he got his out, but I don't dare try what he did. Great risk to the whole stack part on mine!
The control board 12v limit is 15.4 so I have to stay under that with the converter's adjustable voltage. There is some voltage drop in the board, but can't be helped. If I by-pass the board and go DC direct to the element I lose temp control for when it should cycle.
If I put 15v direct to the 12v heater, leaving it also connected to the board,(to avoid the voltage drop in the board) and "regular" 12-14v from another DC source to the board as when on propane, the controls would not work---but maybe they would?
I don't know if the terminals for the 12v element on the board, when seeing the 12v would "back feed" the board, same as if the board were getting power from its regular 12v inputs.
What does the slider thing on the fins in the fridge do? ISTR you can play with that, but I don't know which way to move it, if that is the key.
PT--good memory on my fridge situation! I don't follow why your 12v would work any better when you have shore power, unless you mean it works with 13.6v and not with 12.6v? I get no joy with 13.6 into the board. It needs 15.2 to get enough to the element.
The control board 12v limit is 15.4 so I have to stay under that with the converter's adjustable voltage. There is some voltage drop in the board, but can't be helped. If I by-pass the board and go DC direct to the element I lose temp control for when it should cycle.
If I put 15v direct to the 12v heater, leaving it also connected to the board,(to avoid the voltage drop in the board) and "regular" 12-14v from another DC source to the board as when on propane, the controls would not work---but maybe they would?
I don't know if the terminals for the 12v element on the board, when seeing the 12v would "back feed" the board, same as if the board were getting power from its regular 12v inputs.
What does the slider thing on the fins in the fridge do? ISTR you can play with that, but I don't know which way to move it, if that is the key.
PT--good memory on my fridge situation! I don't follow why your 12v would work any better when you have shore power, unless you mean it works with 13.6v and not with 12.6v? I get no joy with 13.6 into the board. It needs 15.2 to get enough to the element.
