Fridge won't stay burning in hot sun
Fridge works perfectly until the hot sun get on the outside grill, usually starts going out (F code) about 2 pm. It will lite back up no problem, but will burn only 10-15 minutes. At about 6 pm, it wo...
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I was warned of that terminal on the board when I bought the sensor cable, I did check it, appeared to be tight, and a good connection.
For now, its in "not broke so don't fix it" mode, I'll leave the fan there, except I should put a switch on it,......except what is .3 amp gonna hurt when ya have solar ??:)
Thanks for all the info,......I'm learning more about fridges, if nothing else.
For now, its in "not broke so don't fix it" mode, I'll leave the fan there, except I should put a switch on it,......except what is .3 amp gonna hurt when ya have solar ??:)
Thanks for all the info,......I'm learning more about fridges, if nothing else.
dougrainer wrote:RJsfishin wrote:
Doug,
I replaced the spark sensor wire a while back when I first got here. It had trouble lighting at times, sometimes going into failure mode after several tries. That fixed it now never fails to light,.....well after I got the gap adjusted right that is.
This is a whole nother problem, and not a very serious one at that. And one it may have had since new
Thanks.
Long shot would be the Piezo ignitor tower on the control board is loose. I find this on 1200 models when the spark electrode spade is removed and you do NOT use a back up screwdriver to hold the piezo tower tight on the board to pull the spade terminal loose. If you pull the spade without securing the tower, you pull the tower solder pins loose. The fix is to either replace the board or pull the board and resolder the 4 solder pins on the tower on the board. This type problem will allow the Piezo to spark, but NOT allow the return AC flame signal to get to the board for processing that there is a flame. So, you may indeed need a new board. Doug
