Hi,I just got the trailer, (2014 Bullet 31BHPR), out of storage for a trip to Myrtle Beach beginning Friday. I got it home, plugged it in to shore power, turned on the fridge and it went, appropriately, to AC. I tried to turn on the furnace to take the chill off and the blower motor comes on for 20-30 seconds but I don't hear the igniters clicking. I left the fridge on and disconnected from shore power after turning on and lighting the stove to prove LP gas is flowing. The igniters click merrily away but nothing happens. Thinking the battery may be low I left it plugged in to shore power overnight.This morning the furnace acts in the same fashion as does the fridge. Battery tests in the 12.8-13.1 range. I completely disconnected both gas bottles and reconnected them all. No change in fridge or furnace. I put all the stove burners on full for 30 seconds or so to ensure consistent pressure. All seems fine. I briefly turned on the LP side of the water heater with the cover open. It lit immediately with a strong blue flame.I will have full hookup in Myrtle Beach and have electric heaters so that isn't an issue I can't overcome. Since it is a two day trip there, (in SE Michigan), I'd like to be able to run the fridge while traveling.Does anyone have a suggestion as to what I should do next?

"This morning the furnace acts in the same fashion as does the fridge"Does that mean you can now hear the clicking from the furnace?In our rig, the fridge and furnace won't light at first after a long time not being used, but the stove and WH light up ok. We have to keep trying and trying until the fridge and furnace finally light.With the furnace it means using the thermostat to switch "off" let the fan stop and then switch "on" again. Fan comes on click and no heat. Eventually doing that it does light. Once it does it works fine for days, but same thing after sitting at home for a week or two.There is something wrong with that--probably needs the burner cleaned, but I haven't attempted that yet.

Sorry, I was unclear. The furnace acts like it did the night before and the fridge acts like it did the night before.I also forgot to mention I gave the furnace area around the jets a good blowing out with compressed air last night.I'll go and give it another few goes turning it on and off... and I'll blow out the furnace again for good measure too.

Maybe i'm missing it, but I didn't see where you actually turned the bottles on??

You're missing it... I mentioned that I tested ti stove to make sure gas was flowing and I turned on the water heater to LP gas and it lit immediately with a strong blue flame... :)

Is the tank turned on. I guess Im missing it to

Furnace and fridge no LP gas. | Good Sam Community

BFL13
Explorer II
Mar 27, 2018
The fridge is not getting any gas obviously. I have fixed that on a couple of fridges. You take off the gas pipes at the back and soak them in mineral spirits so they are clear of any gunk. The sprayer on the end of one of the pipes just before the "burner" needs a soaking especially. (use a taller sort of glass jar to dunk it in)

When that is done right, you can pour spirits into the end of the pipe the sprayer is on the other end of, and blow on it like a straw, and the sprayer will squirt like a little water pistol, indicating it works.

One part that also can block the gas even if free of any gunk by that cleaning, is the solenoid valve that is before that sprayer tube part. It has some wires to it. I have had a situation where a wire was not on it properly so it would not open. Fit the wire on right and it works! All this is easy to get at behind a fridge.

Can't help with that furnace, but it seems it has to be pulled out to get at the burner part that might need a clean-up. But with no spark either, it might need electrical work.
am1958
Explorer
Mar 27, 2018
maillemaker wrote:
It's hard to follow along here what is going on.

So, your stove and water heater work fine on gas, with shore power connected or disconnected, right?

The stove always worked, the water heater and fridge both work on 12V and on shore power.

But your fridge and furnace both audibly spark, but do not ignite, with shore power connected or disconnected?

The fridge audibly sparks but the furnace does not.

Both your furnace and refrigerator may have a gas valve at the appliance. Both of mine do. Make sure they are both on.

Neither seem to have one and since I have never turned one off I can't see where I'd turn one on.

Clean the ignitor electrodes. Have a helper turn on the appliance while you watch the electrodes. You should be able to see them sparking. You can also try to use one of those long-neck lighters to manually light the flame when someone turns on the appliance. If the spark is not doing the trick the lighter will - if you have gas flowing.

If you can get the appliance lit with a lighter, the problem is with your ignition system. It is a simple control board. Clean all contacts and the ignitor electrodes. If this fails, you may need new control boards. I just replaced my water heater and refrigerator control boards with ones from Dinosaur Electronics. They work great.

Steve

The _only_ problem is the furnace will blow for 30ish seconds and nothing will happen so it stops trying. There is no external panel that gives me access to the furnace and when I remove the interior panel to the furnace under the fridge proper all I can see is the ducts that transfer the air around and an incoming LP gas supply. My only option appears to be totally removing the furnace.

I'm leaving on Friday so, while it isn't my highest priority, I'd like to find a solution I can do myself so any help is much appreciated.
maillemaker
Explorer
Mar 27, 2018
It's hard to follow along here what is going on.

So, your stove and water heater work fine on gas, with shore power connected or disconnected, right?

But your fridge and furnace both audibly spark, but do not ignite, with shore power connected or disconnected?

Both your furnace and refrigerator may have a gas valve at the appliance. Both of mine do. Make sure they are both on.

Clean the ignitor electrodes. Have a helper turn on the appliance while you watch the electrodes. You should be able to see them sparking. You can also try to use one of those long-neck lighters to manually light the flame when someone turns on the appliance. If the spark is not doing the trick the lighter will - if you have gas flowing.

If you can get the appliance lit with a lighter, the problem is with your ignition system. It is a simple control board. Clean all contacts and the ignitor electrodes. If this fails, you may need new control boards. I just replaced my water heater and refrigerator control boards with ones from Dinosaur Electronics. They work great.

Steve
wasatchmtnatvr
Explorer
Mar 27, 2018
Don't always lump all problems need one answer. Sorry my computer doesn't show your pictures. Always give model number and brand of appliance would help. Refer, is the little manual gas valve turned on, on the refer gas valve? Furnace you said fan runs 20-30 seconds then shuts off. Most likely bad limit switch especially if it is a suburban sf series. Also possibly sail switch. These failing will cause furnace to not attempt to light and cause fan to shut off at 30 second mark.
am1958
Explorer
Mar 27, 2018
I looked at the manual that came with the trailer but it's purely an installation manual... I'll get that and google the appropriate thing in the morning... Thanks...
BFL13
Explorer II
Mar 27, 2018
am1958 wrote:
Bipeflier:

No slide involved... The slide is opposite with no LP gas appliances...

I can survive the week without the furnace... Can I survive the lovely lady complaining that it should work? Different issue... ;-)

Usually there is a handout that comes with the RV about the furnace. If not, it will be on-line--just Google for it. That will tell you what you need to do.
am1958
Explorer
Mar 26, 2018
Bipeflier:

No slide involved... The slide is opposite with no LP gas appliances...

I can survive the week without the furnace... Can I survive the lovely lady complaining that it should work? Different issue... ;-)
Bipeflier
Explorer
Mar 26, 2018
My trailer has a shut off valve in the LP line before it goes into the slide for the frig and heater. Maybe it is turned off?
am1958
Explorer
Mar 26, 2018
BFL:

No problem... Every darned trailer out there seems different.

prichardson:

I followed the LP line under the trailer. From the point where the regulator hose enters the LP line there are three "exit points". Two are independent under the stove/fridge/furnace area and I'm guessing that one, logically, goes to the stove alone while the other goes to the two "highly regulated" devices. The third exit is to the external kitchen propane feed. They all look good - to me - and any feed line I can see from there seems "whole", un-pinched and unobstructed. I'm fairly sure that if I can find the jets I'll be able to do something useful...
prichardson
Explorer
Mar 26, 2018
From the proximity of the three systems in the picture they probably have a common feed. Can you access the area under the fridge or under the TT and see the piping serving those units. Sounds like there may be a pinched or obstructed gas line.

Forum Discussion

Furnace and fridge no LP gas.

About Technical Issues

Related Content

Replacing thermostat for gas furnace only

Furnace

Another Fridge on Gas Question

Propane/ Furnace

Furnace clicking