Generator questions

Double post.

bigtime_077 wrote:
So would I be better to use 2-2000w generators or a single 3000w. The 3000w seem to have a larger tank but maybe not once you add the 2 together. The other one I looked at was the yamaha 3000iseb which clais 3500 starting watts. I have found quite a few leftover 2013 units and it looks as though I can buy the 3000 watt ones for about same price as 2-2000 watt generators and pairing cables. Don't know which to use.

Keep in mind I may never use these for the RV but would like to run my enclosed trailer and household essentials in case of outage. Primary use is enclosed trailer running 1500w heater CPAP 90w, phone charger,GoPro charger, battery charger for GPS, and charge the deep cycle battery for the trailer interior lights.

Also can these generators be used for 120v output and 12v charging at the same time?

The Yamaha EF3000iseb "boost" technology sounds good on paper. However, who knows in the realworld.

If your primary use is just powering a 1500w (12.5a) heater, a 90w (.8a) CPAP, and the converter (worst case 7-9a), a paralleled pair of Honda EU2000iS and the Honda EU3000iS will probably work just fine. The Honda EU3000iS has the added bonus of being the most quiet generator of the bunch--by far. The paralleled Honda EU2000iS's have the added bonus of being much more portable and slightly more powerful than the EU3000iS. It's much easier to carry two 55 lb. EU2000iS's (wet), then one 155-160 lb. Honda EU3000iS (wet).

If runtime is a concern, there are a number of after-market, external gas tanks available for both Hondas that will allow operation for over 24 hours without refueling.

If saving $1000-1100 interests you, you may want to consider the Champion 2800/3000w 75531i (an inverter generator just like the Hondas). It weighs about 95 lbs. (wet), capable of more inrush current than the above-mentioned Hondas, not to mention Champion's reputation for excellent warranty support. Downside is the sound level. The 75531i is a tad louder than a pair of paralleled EU2000iS's, and quite a bit louder than the super-quiet EU3000iS.

So would I be better to use 2-2000w generators or a single 3000w. The 3000w seem to have a larger tank but maybe not once you add the 2 together. The other one I looked at was the yamaha 3000iseb which clais 3500 starting watts. I have found quite a few leftover 2013 units and it looks as though I can buy the 3000 watt ones for about same price as 2-2000 watt generators and pairing cables. Don't know which to use.

Keep in mind I may never use these for the RV but would like to run my enclosed trailer and household essentials in case of outage. Primary use is enclosed trailer running 1500w heater CPAP 90w, phone charger,GoPro charger, battery charger for GPS, and charge the deep cycle battery for the trailer interior lights.

Also can these generators be used for 120v output and 12v charging at the same time?

I run a pair of EU2000i's, paralleled. It handles charge controller on a low battery and 13.5k in 100F temps at 4000 feet in elevation just fine. I know, I just tried it in Lone Pine, CA desert, in July. YMMV with a 15,000 BTU AC that's cycling.

I also run a Camco Wave 3 catalytic heater. I crack the ceiling vent and a window with 1" openings and run it when awake for CO venting purposes like the instructions suggest. I would not sleep with it on, use a plush down comforter for that, instead.

Better to go bigger and not need it all, than to go smaller and find out you actually did need the extra capacity.

bigtime_077 wrote:
. . . I found out I can run my AC on an 82 degree day off of the 15 amp plug that I have on the side of my house. I have only tried this once just to see if it had the soft start capacitor or not. I assume that it must if it started and ran without tripping breaker. During this test I also realized that the refrigerator in the RV was also running on electric at the same time. Anyway that is why I assume that the Yamaha 2400 would run the AC if it doesn't trip out a 15 amp breaker on the house . . .

bigtime_077 wrote:
Sorry my fault for not clarifying before. Space heater would only be run in enclosed trailer along with charging the deep cycle battery and my CPAP machine at night. That's why I don't think a 2000w, 1600w continuous can handle that. Think I would need at least the Yamaha 2400. The more I think about it I may be better to just step up to a 3000w, 2800w continuous and let the engine run at lower speeds. Engine life would likely be longer that way.

Concur a 2000w generator won't suffice.

Typical Honda/Yamaha 2000w generator can produce about 13a (13 amps) continuously. A space heater (on high) requires approx. 12.5a. Most 45-55a converters require approx. 7-9a when charging depleted batteries. That's approx. a 20-22a load before even considering the CPAP machine. FWIW, this load also exceeds the current capability of a Yamaha 2400 (16.7a/2000w "continuous" rating).

From personal experience, even a Honda EU3000iS (2800w/23a continuous rating) will be running at or near its limit supporting a typical OEM 13.5k a/c (13-14a) and a fully-loaded converter (7-9a). It'll work, but chances are very high the Honda EU3000iS will not be able to start the a/c compressor when it recycles under these conditions.

As for comparing the performance of a 15a residential circuit to a Yamaha 2400 (16.7a), Honda EU3000iS (23a), and/or pair of Honda EU2000iS (26a), IMO it's not a fair comparison. From my experience, a "healthy" 15a residential circuit (using a short 10 gauge extension cord) will easily outperform all three of these generators when powering an inductive load like a 13.5k - 15k BTU a/c unit. A properly working 15a residential circuit can easily produce more inrush or starting current than all of these generators. However, when it comes to powering non-inductive loads like a space heater then, yes, these generators will very likely outperform a typical 15 amp residential circuit.

I Know it is not a Honda or a Yamaha but this little gen set has really been peaking my interest lately. It is fuel injected so when we go high it still runs and it has a remote start!!
Powerhouse 4K

Chris

Sorry my fault for not clarifying before. Space heater would only be run in enclosed trailer along with charging the deep cycle battery and my CPAP machine at night. That's why I don't think a 2000w, 1600w continuous can handle that. Think I would need at least the Yamaha 2400. The more I think about it I may be better to just step up to a 3000w, 2800w continuous and let the engine run at lower speeds. Engine life would likely be longer that way.

Do be aware that there are actually two wattage ratings that must be considered: the running watts of everything you plan to run at the same time, and the startup/surge watts when things first kick on. Now an electric resistance heater, and the 'fridge on electric falls into this category, is going to have the same surge as running wattage (well, close enough you can ignore the difference). But anything with a motor, and that means your AC, which actually has TWO motors, will have a surge draw 2-3 times the running wattage.

And some generator makers call their models based upon the surge, and some based upon the running wattage. For example, I have two generators; one is a Generac 5500 and the other is an ETQ 1800. The former is 5500 watts continuous/6850 watts surge; the latter is 1600 watts continuous/1800 watts surge. So you really need to know both ratings in order to pick the right generator.

As for not tripping the 15 amp house circuit with both the AC and the 'fridge running might be a tribute to the circuit breaker more than anything. If we assume the 'fridge heater was actually running when you did your test (which is not a sure thing) and the surge when you turned on the AC didn't knock off the breaker AT HOME, that may or may not carry over to in the boonies, because there is one more draw you need to bear in mind: the converter and the status of your house battery.

If the battery was fully charged when you were home, the converter won't make much difference, but if the battery needs charging, the converter will try to charge it, and thus draw perhaps 500 to 700 watts to do so.

If you search here, you will find many people bragging that their AC runs fine on a Honda 2000. You will also find some of them returning later to say scratch that; it works only at home when the house battery is fully charged.

So the simple truth is that a 2000 watt generator (surge, that is) will run some ACs, but it is very marginal at best. A 2400 watt generator (surge) will work fine most of the time, but only right up until somebody tries to microwave some popcorn . . . .

If all you want to do is run a 1600 watt space heater while charging the house battery and/or running the 'fridge, a 2000 watt (surge) generator won't cut it, you'll need that 2400 watt unit for sure. If you want to make sure you can power the space heater AND the 'fridge AND charge the batteries, the 3,000 watt (surge) generator is probably your best bet. And if you want to allow for that popcorn, too, better go for a 4,000 watt unit.

But heck, skip the space heater, and ONLY charge the batteries, then a 1,000 watt generator will do fine.

moved from ATC