Generator repair - Generac Q-55G
I completed a trouble shooting and repair on the Generac generator in a 1999 mororhome. It might help someone else who might have similar generator problems. The post is a little long but the details will help anyone having the same problem.
The generator would start and run but quit in a few minutes. It finally got to the point where it quit after only a couple of minutes. There are two switches on the generator. One is a start/stop switch and the other is a fuel pump primer switch. If I would push the fuel pump primer switch I could hear the fuel pump. The generator would then start but still die in a couple of minutes.
In using the starter switch on the generator it developed a soft feel when you pushed it. Eventually it would not crank the generator. But the inside starter switch would still crank the generator but then it would not start.
Also then the primer switch would not cause the fuel pump to make any noise. The fuel pump is located on the generator frame where the fuel line is attached. It has two wires. A hot lead and a ground line connected to the pump mounting bolt. I disconnected the hot lead and using a battery charger jumped the pump. The pump worked and the generator would start but still die after a few minutes.
I then started to trouble shoot the two switches. Each switch has three terminals connected by spade wiring terminals. By testing (use a multi-meter or test light) I found the hot lead. With a jumper wire I went from the hot terminal to the other terminals on both switches. Both the fuel pump and the starter (individually) would work as long as I had the jumper wire connected. Based on this I figured that both switches were bad.
Stand By Power in Commerce City, CO (metro Denver) carry Generac parts. They had one switch in stock and had to order the other. The switch came in when they said it would. From the owners manual the parts numbers are 87798 start/stop switch and 92113 fuel pump switch. The cost was $2.95 and $3.20.
Installed the new switches, used the fuel pump primer switch, and the generator started and runs fine.
Here are some hints to help anyone needed to do this repair.
As I mentioned you can trouble shoot each switch using a jumper wire. And you can test the fuel pump using a 12v battery charger.
Disconnect the coach batteries and the power cable to the generator before you go to pull the switches.
There is a large plastic cover over the switch area and the wiring so you need to remove it for access.
There is a 5 amp fuse located next to the switches. Make sure it is not blown. Also the panel that holds the switches is metal so if the batteries are not disconnected you might hit the metal as you remove the switch. The hot lead will blow this fuse. I tested this theory for you.
The switches have small clips on the ends to hold them in the openings. A small screwdriver can be used at the top and bottom to help remove the switches. The spade terminals on the switches are small so don’t just try and pull them off with plyers. It would possibly break the spade terminals. Use a small screwdriver to start lifting the spade terminals away from the switch. Then a larger screwdriver to keep pushing on the spade terminals. You are pushing lengthwise on the spade terminals so there is less chance of breaking it. There is very little slack in the wiring so having to replace the terminals could be hard. These don’t just slide on and off easily.
I hope this helps someone.
The generator would start and run but quit in a few minutes. It finally got to the point where it quit after only a couple of minutes. There are two switches on the generator. One is a start/stop switch and the other is a fuel pump primer switch. If I would push the fuel pump primer switch I could hear the fuel pump. The generator would then start but still die in a couple of minutes.
In using the starter switch on the generator it developed a soft feel when you pushed it. Eventually it would not crank the generator. But the inside starter switch would still crank the generator but then it would not start.
Also then the primer switch would not cause the fuel pump to make any noise. The fuel pump is located on the generator frame where the fuel line is attached. It has two wires. A hot lead and a ground line connected to the pump mounting bolt. I disconnected the hot lead and using a battery charger jumped the pump. The pump worked and the generator would start but still die after a few minutes.
I then started to trouble shoot the two switches. Each switch has three terminals connected by spade wiring terminals. By testing (use a multi-meter or test light) I found the hot lead. With a jumper wire I went from the hot terminal to the other terminals on both switches. Both the fuel pump and the starter (individually) would work as long as I had the jumper wire connected. Based on this I figured that both switches were bad.
Stand By Power in Commerce City, CO (metro Denver) carry Generac parts. They had one switch in stock and had to order the other. The switch came in when they said it would. From the owners manual the parts numbers are 87798 start/stop switch and 92113 fuel pump switch. The cost was $2.95 and $3.20.
Installed the new switches, used the fuel pump primer switch, and the generator started and runs fine.
Here are some hints to help anyone needed to do this repair.
As I mentioned you can trouble shoot each switch using a jumper wire. And you can test the fuel pump using a 12v battery charger.
Disconnect the coach batteries and the power cable to the generator before you go to pull the switches.
There is a large plastic cover over the switch area and the wiring so you need to remove it for access.
There is a 5 amp fuse located next to the switches. Make sure it is not blown. Also the panel that holds the switches is metal so if the batteries are not disconnected you might hit the metal as you remove the switch. The hot lead will blow this fuse. I tested this theory for you.
The switches have small clips on the ends to hold them in the openings. A small screwdriver can be used at the top and bottom to help remove the switches. The spade terminals on the switches are small so don’t just try and pull them off with plyers. It would possibly break the spade terminals. Use a small screwdriver to start lifting the spade terminals away from the switch. Then a larger screwdriver to keep pushing on the spade terminals. You are pushing lengthwise on the spade terminals so there is less chance of breaking it. There is very little slack in the wiring so having to replace the terminals could be hard. These don’t just slide on and off easily.
I hope this helps someone.
