Generator

zipp wrote:
The generator starts and I can measure aprox. 79 volts AC. like I said the engine runs like if the choke is stuck or something. This sounds like it's going to be really expensive any Idea what this might cost.

79 volts AC.. Should be 120.. You have a problem.

When you shut down under load, epically inductive loads (motors) there can be a few "Feedback" issues.. These should not affect how well the engine runs,, but they can affect how well the generator generates.

Alas, SOME generators however (I do not know about yours) one of the "Feedbacks" is a sensor that detects the generator's output.. If there is no output, or if the output is out of range as yours appears to be,, the generator's on-board computer may say "STOP".. this can give the apearance of the generator running rough..

But I do not know if yoru generator does taht.

The Generator runs crappy without a load like it don't have enough power, it was my fault if it is valve is that an expensive fix? Thanks everyone for your input.

Removing the cylinder head and replacing valves will cost more than the control board
Might take an hour to replace the board, diagnosing the problem could take longer
But pulling the generator out of the RV and taking things apart gets expensive

Every week we get posters who say , I turn mine off with A/C running
I start mine while plugged into shore power

They get away with it for awhile

Then we get threads like this, make the mistake one time and Kapow

I started the Generator and I notice that blue smoke is coming out of the exhaust pipe. I know that is not a good sign. It's a Generac prim 55G.

again

"Compression Check" on the cylinders
if you don't have a compression gauge, get a mechanic buddy to help you
low compression is a mechanical failure indicator , rings, valves, head gasket etc..

if compression is good on both cylinders, then see about the control boards

Thanks I'll get the compression checked.

Thanks I'll get the compression checked.

Ok I tried to pull the boot off the spark plug and I couldn't budge it, is there some trick to this? I don't want to ruin it Thanks.

zipp wrote:
Ok I tried to pull the boot off the spark plug and I couldn't budge it, is there some trick to this? I don't want to ruin it Thanks.

Start near the top by the spark plug wire and rotate the boot CW and CCW as much as you can but don't pull on it. Then go down about half way on the boot and rotate CW and CCW again as much as you can without pulling on the wire. Finally go down to the bottom of the boot and do the same.

Hopefully, this procedure will break the stickiness between the plug and the boot. If it still doesn't rotate free of the plug, continue twisting the boot as much as possible. You might be able to get a pliers or similar tool around the boot to help twist it. Only pull on the boot as a last resort. Pulling could cause the boot to tear.

Breaking the spark plug would be a better choice because you can always replace the plug. Once the plug is broken off, you will have room to get a tool into the boot to break it free. Replacing the boot is a devil of a job and you may have to replace the entire plug wire which is even more of a job.

Lubricate the inside of the boot and the outside of the plug with some high temp silicon grease before reinserting it.

LeRoy

You are getting a lot of good advise here but, have you looked to see if the choke is sticking? On my Generac NP66G the choke stuck closed and caused the genny to run ruff and not output the correct voltage. I had to pull the air cleaner completely off to see the choke and the slight rust problem that caused it. This might not be your problem but I did not see on your thread were you checked for this and it would take just a few minutes to do.

Good Luck