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djgodden's avatar
djgodden
Explorer
May 12, 2016

GoPower! SW-3000-12 Inverter Shutdown?

Ok, I know there has to be a simple answer to this but I'm hoping the collective brain here can give me one.

I purchased and installed the subject inverter. Everything in the fifth wheel works brilliantly, except... when I turn on the microwave (even with nothing else in the RV powered up) the inverter shuts down. The MW is a 1500W combined convection/MW type and I thought a 3000W inverter would power the MW portion for more than a few seconds since it has a 6000W surge capability. Is the start up demand exceeding the inverter capability?

Edit: Just in case it matters. The way I tie the inverter into the power is through a 50 amp cable hard wired into the inverter and then plugged in just as shore power would be. Turned on and off via the remote.
  • time2roll's avatar
    time2roll
    Nomad
    May 13, 2016
    Any chance you have the large remote that shows power output?
    If so what does it indicate during the test?
  • ewarnerusa's avatar
    ewarnerusa
    Nomad
    May 13, 2016
    djgodden wrote:
    ...There's a nagging voice in the back of my head telling me it's wiring at the batteries themselves...


    Me too. 4 fully charged batteries should be able to supply enough current (for a relatively short time) without a corresponding voltage drop that shuts down the inverter. If your inverter power supply cables are 4/0 and not 4 gauge, then they should be big enough. However, all of the wiring connections need to be able to support this draw. Are the battery interconnect cables and path to ground also 4/0?

    EDIT: whoops, other posts went up in the time it took me to reply where you answered the question. That's all I've got. Make sure all connections are clean and free of corrosion, that was messing with my inverter recently where small loads were resulting in big voltage drops despite adequate wiring.
  • 2oldman's avatar
    2oldman
    Explorer II
    May 13, 2016
    ewarnerusa wrote:
    Are the battery interconnect cables and path to ground also 4/0?
    They don't need to be. Path to ground? Why does he need that?

  • MEXICOWANDERER's avatar
    MEXICOWANDERER
    Explorer
    May 13, 2016
    Whew! Enough "conjecture" to power a barn heater an entire winter...

    Use a voltmeter on the inverter's cable studs.

    Have someone else start the microwave\

    You'll have the correct diagnosis in five seconds or less

    Either the studs stay above shutdown threshold voltage or they don't.

    I wont enter into endless permutations from there...
  • ewarnerusa's avatar
    ewarnerusa
    Nomad
    May 16, 2016
    2oldman wrote:
    ewarnerusa wrote:
    Are the battery interconnect cables and path to ground also 4/0?
    They don't need to be. Path to ground? Why does he need that?


    Negative battery post must have a path to ground or no juice will flow, right? I was under the impression that this path will also carry the full load of whatever you are drawing, so it must be comparably sized. Is that wrong? Same with battery interconnects, although in parallel setups each 12V group sees a portion of the load so you could get away with smaller sized cables. But that's not a potential bottleneck I would want to have.
  • MrWizard's avatar
    MrWizard
    Moderator
    May 16, 2016
    the battery 'ground' cable, seldom has anything to directly affect the inverter
    the inverter should be hard wired with (2) cables neg and pos, directly to the battery, NOT the frame ground neg

    corrosion or loose connections where the cable are joined do cause problems

    the house RV batteries are usually neg grounded, for two reasons, the house RV systems and the alternator chargeing while running, and have nothing to do with using the inverter
  • ewarnerusa's avatar
    ewarnerusa
    Nomad
    May 16, 2016
    OK, I learned something new and I misunderstood about the battery ground. I thought it needed to be wired as big as the main load connections.
  • MrWizard's avatar
    MrWizard
    Moderator
    May 16, 2016
    it does need to be at least #2ga wire
    because of the jump start return path through the frame to the batteries when using the emg jump to start the engine
    and bigger is better
  • djgodden's avatar
    djgodden
    Explorer
    May 25, 2016
    Ok... I feel pretty stupid here. Memory failed me on multiple levels. Turns out my problem was the wiring between the batteries and the inverter. Checked with multi meter and there was a significant drop between battery and inverter. Took a look at my cables, they were 4 AWG not the 4/0 AWG they are supposed to be. Went and checked my purchase on Amazon, I ordered the correct wires... they sent me the wrong ones. I neglected to check them. Then I called GoPower tech dudes and they confirmed that had to be the problem.

    Needless to say I thank all of you for your suggestions in helping me figure this out.

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