Got the Drok and an ammeter

Sheesh the above formula ia for a wet Sb.
Refer to the Concorde PDF for formulae for AGM.

Divide and conquer when all else proves too wimpy to task.

One at a time is superior to all is too much.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
The battery could care less about power factor.

Yep ..... but a camper using a small-as-possible generator mainly for just battery charging when drycamping will care about power factor.

And since (one of the) ideas behind use of a simple inexpensive manually adjustable power supply is for direct control for fastest possible battery charging - which implies off grid non-solar-availability camping - then power factor correction should be considered for a small generator owner when choosing any power supply for their battery charging.

And for 48 cells of AGM, totalling 796 amp hrs?

The fifteenth of July downtown Phoenix, on an asphalt driveway, or New Years Eve in quaint Yellowknife, Northwest Territory, the DROK can be tweaked to fit the temperature. Is is a time-limited task device so a mere rude & crude temp compensation is all it needs.

The battery could care less about power factor.

FEED ME!

5% total amp hour capacity for amperage

15.0 volts limit for top charging

16.0 volts for equalization

Means a whole 5-amps for a 100 amp hour battery
11.0 amps for a 6 cells series golf car battery

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Remember an INTERMATIC WIND UP TIMER can be used in this circuit. I recommend a 4-hour model.

What Mex is describing here is awfully close to what Parallax engineers built into some of there RV converter models a long time ago. One of the models was their 7345T model. It would hold around 14.4 volts for the first four hours after powering it up, then revert to 13.8 volts from then on.

I sure wish I had one of those obsolete 7345T converters in our rig today. It would treat my two AGM coach batteries perfectly. Well, almost perfectly ... the 7345T didn't have power factor correction or temperature compensation ... but the DROK doesn't, either.

Connect to battery on "in" side. Observe polarity, use red/black color coded wires. Set INBOARD blue pot to 16.0 volts for equalization, or 15.0 volts for top charging.

OUTBOARD blue pot. Back off adjustment screw all the way. Don't want to blow that yellow 20-amp fuse on the DROK.

Connect "out" negative wire to battery. Connect out positive wire to DMM red lead with meter set to 10-amps. Make sure probes are in correct holes for reading 10-amps. No worries. You limited current to zero, so no sparks.

Slowly bring up OUTBOARD (amperes) pot until you start seeing a reading on the DMM. This may or may not take 1-2 turns of the pot screw.

Adjust pot to 5.0 amps. This setting will stay locked-in from now on.

Disconnect meter from circuit. Wire direct from source voltage to DROK

Verify voltage, in case it drifted a little.

Fifteen minutes down the line, fondle the heat sink underneath the DROK. It should not run hot. On really hot days, play a tiny muffin fan across the DROK.

Remember an INTERMATIC WIND UP TIMER can be used in this circuit. I recommend a 4-hour model. Plenty of amperage reserve capacity.

With the timer, an ammeter, and a verified accurate voltmeter you will have quite the machine. Amperage and voltage will need minor tweaking as the system ages. But you have the ammeter in place. I gave the instructions above for folks who do not have a dedicated ammeter (which is more than handy to have always monitoring).

MrWizard wrote:
your going to use it for a charger
adust the voltage no load
connect to a battery you know will pull more than the desired setting
and adjust down to setting you want

i'm using a similar Drok boost only with no amps control as a trikle style battery maintainer for my chassis batteries

connected to wiring harness up front between the chassis and house

i've been considering the one you just got, so i can set a current limit

That makes sense, connecting to a battery you know will pull more than your desired setting! Simple and easy. I'm really looking forward to experimenting with this thing. In combination with my PowerMax Boondocker, it should allow me to charge at exactly the profile I want to.

your going to use it for a charger
adust the voltage no load
connect to a battery you know will pull more than the desired setting
and adjust down to setting you want

i'm using a similar Drok boost only with no amps control as a trikle style battery maintainer for my chassis batteries

connected to wiring harness up front between the chassis and house

i've been considering the one you just got, so i can set a current limit

No, no manual. Yes, the pots are for adjusting the volts and the current.

To really understand what I'm up to here, the previous thread is needed:
Clicky

In this link you can enlarge the small blue devices. They are the pots to adjust. Did unit come with manual?
DROK