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Just_There's avatar
Just_There
Explorer
Feb 03, 2019

Ground-Neutral bond

Please help me to understand grounding and neutral bonding. This assumes the transfer switch between shore power and generator switches both hot & neutral. This is how I understand it with a big question at the end.

On-board Generator:
Ground, neutral, chassis all bonded together.

Shore power:
Ground wire, neutral bonded & grounded to earth at or upstream of pedestal.

Battery bank:
Negative through shunt, then bonded to chassis.

PV charge controller:
No ground.

Inverter-charger w/ auto transfer switch:
Case bonded to chassis.
¿Neutral & Ground Bonded? Yes/No
  • Just There wrote:
    I Have room in the main panel to configure the external A-C supply and the A-C from the inverter. Is this:
    #1 Safe?
    #2 Smart?
    #3 Legal?
    Also, can these supplies share the neutral bus bar?


    You need to be clearer on exactly what you mean by "configure."

    If you mean connect the output of the inverter to the panel via a breaker added to an empty slot, that is neither safe nor smart nor up to code.

    If you mean connecting an inverter/charger's AC power in to the panel, and then connecting circuits to its output (and so using its built-in transfer switch), then that's a reasonable plan and generally how things are done...but of course there are plenty of ways to make mistakes or do things improperly, as with any wiring project.
  • Let me try to clarify: I have the factory wiring in a box with empty slots. From the Main I want to feed the A/C and the inverter/charger. All other circuits, i.e. GFI outlets, microwave will be powered from the inverter (with built-in auto transfer). I would like to house those breakers with their existing load wiring in the Main box, rather than have a sub-panel.

    I realize there are very creative ways to mess up, but I was always told A-C and DC must be in separate panels, yet there they are together..straight from the factory.

    *upon further review, this would not be good because the “Main” breaker would not deinergize everything in the panel. I guess I need to find room for a sub-panel.
  • If you have an RV fridge or electric water heater, you probably want those also not powered by the inverter.

    Yes, as you realized, you do need a subpanel. The AC and DC sides, although mounted on the same outer chassis, are separated electrically and physically so are not really part of the same panel/enclosure. Besides the main breaker issue, you would need to isolate portions of the main bus, which would require unapproved modifications, and have two separate neutral busses. I think it is possible to have two separate sources in the same enclosure per the NEC with certain required labeling, but I'm not positive about that.

    It might work out have the new panel be the main panel and the existing panel as the subpanel; if you need fewer breakers for the main, it might mean being able to use a smaller additional panel.
  • Let me see if this makes sense:
    Add a new main panel with 30a breaker feeding (relocated old) 20a Air-Con breaker and 2000W inverter/charger.
    Old main panel becomes sub-panel fed from inverter output to old 30a “Main” breaker, leaving all house wiring & breakers in place, with the exception of relocated A/C and abandoned Converter circuits.
    Fridge is AC-Propane option, so I think leave that on inverter and manage manually for now. Water heater is propane only (I think)