Grounding strap from radio antenna, where to connect it?

I used aluminum tape to make a large * (asterisk) shape on the roof of my trailer with the antenna mounted in the center. It gets outstanding reception. Way better than the factory stereo in my tow vehicle.

I'm on my second Bigfoot fiberglass camper. Both had AM/FM radio antennas with no ground plane. Reception seems good enough.

Matt, my camper had a combo TV/satellite antenna on the roof when I bought it, and I removed it leaving several holes in the roof. I patched it by buying a wide roll of aluminum flashing, and completely covering the underside of it with Eternabond double-stick tape. I used self-leveling lap sealant around the perimeter of the patch.

It has never shown the slightest indication of peeling off. You could use this same method to create an antenna ground plane.

:):)

Ok FM radio is the 3 meter band so you need 0.75 meters of "Ground plane" ideally a circle.. If you can just apply window screen to the undeside of the roof. or to the top and paint over it with snow roof or some like product.

NOTE the radio will very likely work just fine without the ground strap just reception may be.... different.

or extend the strap down so it's a full 3/4 meter long (75 CM) straight DOWN from the whip. it does not actually need to be grounded. (if you mount it so it's over a wall you can easily do that.

For Recieve only nothign is critical.

Now for Transmitters...... Totally different ball game (I have something like 5 transmitters behind me 4 actually work one is not currently in use)

Gdetrailer wrote:

JoeChiOhki wrote:

DrewE wrote:
Ideally: install a piece of sheet metal under the antenna (a few square feet) and attach it to that. The ground plane is there to basically act as a sort of RF counterpoise for the main antenna element; the DC voltage it's at is comparatively of little importance from an antenna performance standpoint (but may be of great importance to the circuitry in the radio or any amplifier circuitry in the antenna).

If you aren't going to create a proper ground plane, connecting it to most any handy chassis ground potential place is probably the best plan, but it may be worth experimenting with it connected and unconnected to see if perchance one works better than the other.

Ergo, the question. The unit is entirely made of wood and fiberglass and there is not space where the antenna was mounted to attach a metal ground plane, ergo why I was wondering if there was another route that could be taken with the grounding strap.

I think Drew was suggesting to "mount" (glue or screw) a piece of metal under, near or around the antenna area. That metal can be nothing more than some light gauge galvanized tin or even aluminum.

The antenna should already have a connection to 12V ground via the outside shield of the antenna coax which should have an electrical connection to the antenna strap. The coax shield should connect through the radio to the battery negative ground connection and the negative ground wiring becomes the "ground plane".

As Drew mentioned, try it as is, if it works then go with it as is, if it doesn't work well then adding some light gauge sheet metal to the roof near the antenna might help.

Mk, thank you :). I just wanted to get a second pair of eyes on the setup, as I'll be finally completing the setup of the stereo as completion of the restoration has finally entered the completion of the electrical system stage.

JoeChiOhki wrote:

DrewE wrote:
Ideally: install a piece of sheet metal under the antenna (a few square feet) and attach it to that. The ground plane is there to basically act as a sort of RF counterpoise for the main antenna element; the DC voltage it's at is comparatively of little importance from an antenna performance standpoint (but may be of great importance to the circuitry in the radio or any amplifier circuitry in the antenna).

If you aren't going to create a proper ground plane, connecting it to most any handy chassis ground potential place is probably the best plan, but it may be worth experimenting with it connected and unconnected to see if perchance one works better than the other.

Ergo, the question. The unit is entirely made of wood and fiberglass and there is not space where the antenna was mounted to attach a metal ground plane, ergo why I was wondering if there was another route that could be taken with the grounding strap.

I think Drew was suggesting to "mount" (glue or screw) a piece of metal under, near or around the antenna area. That metal can be nothing more than some light gauge galvanized tin or even aluminum.

The antenna should already have a connection to 12V ground via the outside shield of the antenna coax which should have an electrical connection to the antenna strap. The coax shield should connect through the radio to the battery negative ground connection and the negative ground wiring becomes the "ground plane".

As Drew mentioned, try it as is, if it works then go with it as is, if it doesn't work well then adding some light gauge sheet metal to the roof near the antenna might help.

DrewE wrote:
Ideally: install a piece of sheet metal under the antenna (a few square feet) and attach it to that. The ground plane is there to basically act as a sort of RF counterpoise for the main antenna element; the DC voltage it's at is comparatively of little importance from an antenna performance standpoint (but may be of great importance to the circuitry in the radio or any amplifier circuitry in the antenna).

If you aren't going to create a proper ground plane, connecting it to most any handy chassis ground potential place is probably the best plan, but it may be worth experimenting with it connected and unconnected to see if perchance one works better than the other.

Ergo, the question. The unit is entirely made of wood and fiberglass and there is not space where the antenna was mounted to attach a metal ground plane, ergo why I was wondering if there was another route that could be taken with the grounding strap.

Ideally: install a piece of sheet metal under the antenna (a few square feet) and attach it to that. The ground plane is there to basically act as a sort of RF counterpoise for the main antenna element; the DC voltage it's at is comparatively of little importance from an antenna performance standpoint (but may be of great importance to the circuitry in the radio or any amplifier circuitry in the antenna).

If you aren't going to create a proper ground plane, connecting it to most any handy chassis ground potential place is probably the best plan, but it may be worth experimenting with it connected and unconnected to see if perchance one works better than the other.