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Leeski_Clan's avatar
Leeski_Clan
Explorer
May 13, 2018

Head Scratcher - 40A+ draw from the fridge?

Hi Forums,

I installed a GoPower IC 3000 which is an inverter, charger and transfer switch combo unit.

In testing, I first ran the TV which pulled ~1.5 A. Then I ran the Norcold 2118 refrigerator and according to the GoPower monitor, the Amp draw went from 1.5A to 48A! I let it run for about 5 minutes and it was defiantly killing the battery bank. The fuse panel is on the same circuit as the fire place but the fireplace was off.

Any idea what would eat that many Amps?

Larry

30 Replies

  • I call normal for an absorption fridge. Set the fridge to propane only while using the inverter. Or is this a compressor fridge?
    Actually mine draws about 30 amps so I assume yours has more features. You want to see some real amps... put the water heater on ;)

    I would recommend 600+ amp hours battery for a 3000 watt inverter.
  • When the dealer says he checked the fridge operation during PDI, he means they turned it on and felt for the cooling unit.
    He didn't check draw.
  • turbojimmy wrote:
    Harvard wrote:
    40 Amps at 12 VDC = 480 watts OR 4 Amps at 120VAC = 480 watts....could be true...


    Yeah that's about right for a 120V heating element. Mine says it's 300 watts but I never checked the actual draw on it.


    Oh, so it is normal to draw that much? The Norcold site says 6Amps.
    Norcold 2118

    Let it be known, electrical has been my Achilles heal ever since I blew up my lamp in Grade 7 shop class. I don't understand it well. Amps vs Watts vs Volts sounds like Charlie Browns teacher to me. :)
  • Harvard wrote:
    40 Amps at 12 VDC = 480 watts OR 4 Amps at 120VAC = 480 watts....could be true...


    Yeah that's about right for a 120V heating element. Mine says it's 300 watts but I never checked the actual draw on it.
  • 40 Amps at 12 VDC = 480 watts OR 4 Amps at 120VAC = 480 watts....could be true...
  • The fridge is under warranty, its a new unit. The difficult thing is to get a local Canadian dealer to look at it because the dealer I bought it from is in Nebraska. Camping season is just starting, the dealers service bays around here are at capacity.

    Sigh.... the joys of owning a new trailer...
  • I would start looking at the 120 volt element now. My first guess is the wire(s) are going to ground where they enter the stack. It maybe possible to repair by sliding shrink tubing over them separately.
    Yes, try to get it repaired under warranty, but repair as a temporaru measure. Let the dealer know!
    Call the refer manufacturer. They may have someone local to do repair.
  • Its a new unit, the dealer said they tested it during thier PDI so I didn't turn the fridge on electric during our walk through. Unfortunately, they are 1200 miles away. (good deal, worth the drive)

    Thanks for the advice, I will run it on propane until cold and then switch over to electric. If it draws 40+ Amps again, then its the heating element.

    Thank you!
  • Shorted heating element. Try getting the refer cold then switch over to check it.