Had a residential electrician wire a 30 amp outlet at home for my RVs. Luckily I had a surge protector hard wired in that protected most stuff. Unfortunately it was his first RV 30 amp and he wired it for 240 amps instead of 120. It blew my convection micowave and the electric side of the fridge. Micro is toast but I think the fridge can be repaired.Question: Now my heat pump only blows warm air from the bottom of the unit in the kitchen ceiling. Previously it blew warm air from the floor ducts same as the furnace. Might this be due to the electrical issues or is there something else going on that I might can fix? Thanks.

Hope your residential electrician is licensed and has insurance... All of this is going to add up pretty substantial before you find all of things that may be blown... Your converter is always on so it is most likely toast as well...Roy Ken

Sorry to hear about the damage. I hope the "electricians" insurance will be paying for all the repairs.As an electrical contractor it really pains me to hear so many stories of so called electricians who obviously don't have a clue what they're doing.I would have the entire RV taken to a service center and have everything checked out. The heat pump could very well have been damaged by the high voltage. You might as well get his insurance to pay for everything at once.

A trip to the dealer, and a written inspection & estimate are needed. ALL 120 volt systems are suspect. If the water heater was full, it may be the only thing unscathed.

This happens every once in a while and once ever is one too many. I hope this guy actually did it for hire. Really gets ugly when a friend does it as a free favor and something like this happens.Agree with the others: Get it checked profesionally and hopefully the electrician's insurance will make it right.

Mike,Normally the AC / heatpump only puts air through the duct work in the ceiling. The duct work in the floor supplies heat from the gas furnace.Certainly I haven't seen all makes and model RVs, but I've looked at a lot of them and just haven't seen one that had ducting connected to both the floor and ceiling from one unit.If you have one that does and you are getting air only from the ceiling, the heatpump is working and you have an obstruction in the duct going to the floor.Follow your duct work to see where it goes to the floor.

Heat Pump: Electrician Sent 240 volts to my Fiver

RoyB
Explorer II
Dec 21, 2015
Hope your residential electrician is licensed and has insurance... All of this is going to add up pretty substantial before you find all of things that may be blown... Your converter is always on so it is most likely toast as well...

Roy Ken
KD4UPL
Explorer
Dec 21, 2015
Sorry to hear about the damage. I hope the "electricians" insurance will be paying for all the repairs.
As an electrical contractor it really pains me to hear so many stories of so called electricians who obviously don't have a clue what they're doing.
I would have the entire RV taken to a service center and have everything checked out. The heat pump could very well have been damaged by the high voltage. You might as well get his insurance to pay for everything at once.
christopherglen
Explorer
Dec 21, 2015
A trip to the dealer, and a written inspection & estimate are needed. ALL 120 volt systems are suspect. If the water heater was full, it may be the only thing unscathed.
j-d
Explorer II
Dec 21, 2015
This happens every once in a while and once ever is one too many. I hope this guy actually did it for hire. Really gets ugly when a friend does it as a free favor and something like this happens.

Agree with the others: Get it checked profesionally and hopefully the electrician's insurance will make it right.
Joe417
Explorer
Dec 21, 2015
Mike,

Normally the AC / heatpump only puts air through the duct work in the ceiling. The duct work in the floor supplies heat from the gas furnace.

Certainly I haven't seen all makes and model RVs, but I've looked at a lot of them and just haven't seen one that had ducting connected to both the floor and ceiling from one unit.

If you have one that does and you are getting air only from the ceiling, the heatpump is working and you have an obstruction in the duct going to the floor.

Follow your duct work to see where it goes to the floor.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Dec 21, 2015
Sorry to hear that you got zapped............all too common of an issue.

You stated you had a hardwired surge protector so how did 240V get to your RV?
Should have not allowed power as voltage was above 132V high voltage trip setting.
PLUS no 'ground'

Microwave .....toasted due to the high voltage
Fridge....electric heat element and probably AC Fuse on circuit board. IF it works on propane otherwise the circuit board could be toasted
Heat pump....not sure how it could have been blowing warm air out of floor registers previously cause heat pump is part of A/C Unit (ceiling) not furnace which is DC.
Water heater element could be blown IF water heater was ON using electric as it is direct AC to you year water heater.

As others noted..converter could also be bad
And you should open AC Panel and check wires/busses for damage.

Hopefully a Licensed/Bonded electrician with insurance.........$$$
2oldman
Explorer II
Dec 21, 2015
Nothing sounds lucky about that. Moral: after having rv wiring put in, it's time to fetch a voltmeter.
gbopp
Explorer
Dec 21, 2015
2oldman wrote:
Moral: after having rv wiring put in, it's time to fetch a voltmeter.

X2. Apparently the electrician did not take this important step.
Or, didn't know what they were doing.
Golden_HVAC
Explorer
Dec 21, 2015
I would be towing it to a RV repair facility, and have them look at it. It might be something simple, but might require a circuit board of some sort too.

Good luck,

Fred.
Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Dec 21, 2015
Every time I read about this happening, I think of the old maxim, "Trust but verify". Verifying that the new RV 30 amp outlet is correct can be as simple as opening your breaker box and making sure the new breaker is a single 30 amp similar to your other 120 volt circuits. If it's a double breaker like the one for the electric range or dryer, then DO NOT PLUG IN THE RV! The best way to verify of course, would be to use a meter at the outlet, but even the simple breaker check will save you a lot of hassles if it's wrong.