Hello, my name is Dave and I am new to rving. I love it so far but I have a lot to learn about my motorhome. I have a 1993 Fleetwood Pace Arrow with a Chevy 454.I am at the end of a week of dry camping and can't get my rv to start, any advice I can get will be greatly appreciated.I am not connected to power and have not been running the generator. A few days ago the lights starting getting dim so I started the engine and let it run for about 45 minutes and then the lights were fine. This happened several times over the last couple of days and I let the engine run for a while each time. The last time it started was Friday morning. When I came back friday afternoon everything was dead and it would not start. No interior lights, no dash lights, no cell phone charger, nothing. I tried to jumpstart it with no luck. I have two six volt batteries and one 12 volt battery that were brand new three weeks ago. I pulled the 12 volt battery and had it charged at a shop. Reinstalled and still nothing.I checked the fuses under the fridge and in the battery control center under the hood and everything is fine. Maybe I am missing a fuse box somewhere? Seems like an ignition fuse is bad. Any ideas? I'm humbly hoping I missed something stupid and easy...Thanks in advance for the help,Dave

I have to ask why you didn't use your genny? 45 minutes on your engine alternator isn't enough to charge your house batteries, not even close.Sounds to me like your batteries are toast, all 3.

Batteries could be bad.If you have a toad or a neighbor, use jumper cables to the 12 volt chassis battery to get it going. After 10-15 minutes try to start the genset. It should have enough charge. The charge relay under the hood should energize after chassis battery has some charge. It (charge relay) will if it is good charge the system.If you have a meter, check the charge relay for voltage after main engine has run. The voltage on each side of the relay should be what the alternator is putting out.If you push the "aux" start button on the dash you should hear a click from the charge relay. The charge relay and the aux start uses the same relay.

Dave, you need a hour reading basic RV electrical. When the lights dim you are way too low on your house battery charge. Being "way too low" ruins batteries.

Nothing? Dead? Or cranks but will not fire?Chassis wiring has fusible links coming off of starter motor. Slide under coach. Braille smaller wires connected along with large starter cable. Do any of them feel like rubber bands? If yes, they have blown meaning either a short or old age.Triple check large battery cables for chassis especially ground cable where it attaches to engine or frame. Shine-up connections.Without process of elimination underway possibilities are endless.

More than likely your battery switches need to be turned on again.In my fleetwood the switches are above the door. One is labelled Chassis the other house. Press the chassi or main to on and then your coach should start

Hello, new to the group and can't get RV to start.

drsteve
Explorer
Aug 07, 2017
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:

And as a professional observation...

Today's recreational vehicles are a hundred times more likely to suffer a disabling event in a non essential system, than a rig from 30 years ago. Is this stupid, or what? Buy something for relaxation and recreation then suffer a heart attack paying for repairs to non essential systems that make "RVing easier". The non essential labor saving convenience that ruins a vacation. Sigmund Freud would have been in ecstasy analyzing this one...

True that. I was less than ecstatic to read the procedure for manual operation of my brand new power awning. A stepladder is required...
MrWizard
Moderator
Aug 07, 2017
SidecarFlip wrote:
midnightsadie wrote:
more than 45min.

Exactly. I run my little inverter 'GENERATOR' 3 hours every evening to keep my batteries charged, every day and I don't use that much power. All my lights are LED and the big power drain is my CPAP and it's not that much.

yep
time2roll
Nomad
Aug 07, 2017
200 to 400 watts solar on the roof could really make a difference.
darsben1
Explorer
Aug 07, 2017
I sent the original poster a private mail.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Aug 07, 2017
What kind of insanity has incorporated a dash switch to isolate chassis function. For that matter, please attempt to convince me a dash mounted hotel switch has any function other than failing.

And as a professional observation...

Today's recreational vehicles are a hundred times more likely to suffer a disabling event in a non essential system, than a rig from 30 years ago. Is this stupid, or what? Buy something for relaxation and recreation then suffer a heart attack paying for repairs to non essential systems that make "RVing easier". The non essential labor saving convenience that ruins a vacation. Sigmund Freud would have been in ecstasy analyzing this one...
enblethen
Nomad
Aug 07, 2017
It may not be the switch as the switch operates a latching relay. It could be corroded connections or loose connection.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Aug 07, 2017
Switched 50-times means "REPLACE ME"

Too many Chinese/Ethiopian switch failures for me. This is why the BORG has Mil-Spec cam over center switches. Quicksilver has 100% Cole Hersee dash switches.

Here is a lead on Carling the new owner of Cole Hersee. Folks may want to fondle a switch to get it to work - I simply do not have the patience.

http://www.littelfuse.com/industries/commercial-vehicle/cole-hersee/switches/rocker-switches.aspx
wa8yxm
Explorer III
Aug 06, 2017
Re: Re-flipping switches and it worked....

Both Switches and Solenoids of modern design, are "Self Cleaning" but sometimes they get gunked up and it takes a couple flips to clear them

On my coach the disconnect switch is a 3-position spring return to "Neutral" one way causes the solenoid to connect the other way to discconnext..

NOTE: This is not important for this post I just want you to know how MY Sisstem works.

Well I pulled in for Propane and gasoline Hit the "STORE" (Disconnect) heard the solenoid CLUNK and now all ignition sources (Water heater, Furnace and Fridge) are Non-Operational (no flames or sparks)

Gassed up, Gasolined up. Hit the USE and... NOTHING, NO clunk.

I bypassed the solenoid till I could work on it

Removed power from the switch (After doing some testing) and cycled it like 50 times.. IT SELF CLEANED (The contacts "Wipe" over each other) and when I restored power CLUNK it worked.
SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Aug 06, 2017
midnightsadie wrote:
more than 45min.

Exactly. I run my little inverter 3 hours every evening to keep my batteries charged, every day and I don't use that much power. All my lights are LED and the big power drain is my CPAP and it's not that much.
midnightsadie
Explorer II
Aug 06, 2017
more than 45min.

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