HELP: Fridge issues and trip tmw!
Dometic fridge, we always keep a bag of ice in the freezer to help even the temps between trips. Last night went to put food in the fridge and it didn't feel very cold. Digital thermometer reading r...
Forum Discussion
1. The Evap fins will be 10 degrees colder than the actual items in the refer. Where did you install the probe for your thermometer you purchased?
The fridge probe is stuck to the left side wall of the fridge between the 1st and 2nd shelf. Not too close to the fins, not to close to the bottom.
2. 120 elements either work or they do NOT work. No in between/partial operation.
Got that, thank you.
3. WAIT 24 hours before getting a reading
Would love to, but don't have a lot of time to get this diagnosed.
4. Have you verified that the unit is level, now, and when you started loading it up for your trip?
Yes, the trailer is parked in a level spot on my driveway, both side to side and front to rear.
5. If you have a Gas Pressure problem(to low), then Gas is not the way to test operation. Without a Manometer, you cannot verify gas pressure. Just 1 inch low will cause cooling problems.
No gas pressure problems that I am aware of, everything else works just fine. I switched the fridge back to "auto" so it's running on AC now.
6. The 120 wired direct is the best way to go for the 24 hour check. IF after 24 hours and the freezer is NOT below 10 degrees and the refer NOT below 38 degrees (AND THE REAR VENTILATION IS NOT RESTRICTED BOTTOM TO TOP BEHIND THE REFER), Then your cooling unit is probably shot.
I'm unable to verify if the vent fan is working or not.
7. LAST, you don't state if the refer is in a slide room. If it is and you do not have the rear cooling fans operating you will have diminished cooling.
It is located in a slide room.
Right now I am unable to verify that the vent fan is running behind the fridge, it's pouring rain here. I have this cordless fan that I placed behind the fridge blowing up on to the cooling unit. Going to let this run for a few hours and see if it drops the temps, if so the fan likely needs replacement. If the fan doesn't bring the temps down, then I likely will need a cooling unit.
The fridge probe is stuck to the left side wall of the fridge between the 1st and 2nd shelf. Not too close to the fins, not to close to the bottom.
2. 120 elements either work or they do NOT work. No in between/partial operation.
Got that, thank you.
3. WAIT 24 hours before getting a reading
Would love to, but don't have a lot of time to get this diagnosed.
4. Have you verified that the unit is level, now, and when you started loading it up for your trip?
Yes, the trailer is parked in a level spot on my driveway, both side to side and front to rear.
5. If you have a Gas Pressure problem(to low), then Gas is not the way to test operation. Without a Manometer, you cannot verify gas pressure. Just 1 inch low will cause cooling problems.
No gas pressure problems that I am aware of, everything else works just fine. I switched the fridge back to "auto" so it's running on AC now.
6. The 120 wired direct is the best way to go for the 24 hour check. IF after 24 hours and the freezer is NOT below 10 degrees and the refer NOT below 38 degrees (AND THE REAR VENTILATION IS NOT RESTRICTED BOTTOM TO TOP BEHIND THE REFER), Then your cooling unit is probably shot.
I'm unable to verify if the vent fan is working or not.
7. LAST, you don't state if the refer is in a slide room. If it is and you do not have the rear cooling fans operating you will have diminished cooling.
It is located in a slide room.
Right now I am unable to verify that the vent fan is running behind the fridge, it's pouring rain here. I have this cordless fan that I placed behind the fridge blowing up on to the cooling unit. Going to let this run for a few hours and see if it drops the temps, if so the fan likely needs replacement. If the fan doesn't bring the temps down, then I likely will need a cooling unit.
