Forum Discussion
DrewE
Mar 27, 2016Explorer III
It seems you're on the right track here.
A GFCI breaker will turn a plain ordinary outlet (of either the residential or RV design) into a GFCI protected outlet. Likewise, a GFCI outlet can also protect other outlets further along in the circuit, so if the first outlet on the wire from the electric panel is a GFCI, the others can also be regular outlets and have protection (provided the GFCI one is wired properly...it has two sets of hot and neutral terminals, one set for the incoming power and one for the other downstream outlets).
Coachmen put the outlets for the kitchen on my RV on the front of the counter, between the lip of the countertop and the top of the drawers/cabinet doors. You can put it anyplace reasonable that seems convenient. I might be a little bit worried about splashing if it's directly behind the sink, but obviously options are limited when you have only a few square feet for a kitchen.
Any faucet will work fine. Many RVs come with about the cheapest kitchen faucets available. I don't think water flow is much of a concern, since quite often the desire is to conserve water rather than have it come out as quickly as possible. Any faucet will let you do that.
I don't quite follow how you're working the water heater vent, but it does sound like you've given it some thought. If there's a hatch that must be opened, maybe rigging up an interlock switch so it can't be turned on with the hatch closed would be a wise idea. I was thinking that it was wall-mounted with a flange like most RV water heaters are, at least partly, but I guess it must be fixed to the floor instead.
Either the roof fan or the muffin fan will help to get moisture and fumes away. A hood is a nicety but certainly not an absolute essential. My RV has a hood that just recirculates the air into the cabin through a little grease filter thingy. I rarely find it's worth the noise to turn it on for what little value that provides. If it vented outside, it would be much more useful.
A GFCI breaker will turn a plain ordinary outlet (of either the residential or RV design) into a GFCI protected outlet. Likewise, a GFCI outlet can also protect other outlets further along in the circuit, so if the first outlet on the wire from the electric panel is a GFCI, the others can also be regular outlets and have protection (provided the GFCI one is wired properly...it has two sets of hot and neutral terminals, one set for the incoming power and one for the other downstream outlets).
Coachmen put the outlets for the kitchen on my RV on the front of the counter, between the lip of the countertop and the top of the drawers/cabinet doors. You can put it anyplace reasonable that seems convenient. I might be a little bit worried about splashing if it's directly behind the sink, but obviously options are limited when you have only a few square feet for a kitchen.
Any faucet will work fine. Many RVs come with about the cheapest kitchen faucets available. I don't think water flow is much of a concern, since quite often the desire is to conserve water rather than have it come out as quickly as possible. Any faucet will let you do that.
I don't quite follow how you're working the water heater vent, but it does sound like you've given it some thought. If there's a hatch that must be opened, maybe rigging up an interlock switch so it can't be turned on with the hatch closed would be a wise idea. I was thinking that it was wall-mounted with a flange like most RV water heaters are, at least partly, but I guess it must be fixed to the floor instead.
Either the roof fan or the muffin fan will help to get moisture and fumes away. A hood is a nicety but certainly not an absolute essential. My RV has a hood that just recirculates the air into the cabin through a little grease filter thingy. I rarely find it's worth the noise to turn it on for what little value that provides. If it vented outside, it would be much more useful.
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