HELP!!!!!! with last step of inverter install

time2roll wrote:
Sometimes there are kids and non technical users that need a system that is automatic..

Yah, have to agree with that safety issue. Seeing how it's just me and sometimes another adult, I'm pretty safe.

With a big inverter, solar and Li battery, I can and do run the air, which years ago I had a feeling I'd be doing, so I went with whole-house. Also, my first inverter install was a Prosine 2.0, which has excellent power protection for shore AC, so that was another factor in not using a sub-panel.

The coach panel is connected to the sub panel

The sub panel is connected to the main panel


And chassis earth is daisy chained back to the main panel

2oldman wrote:

beemerphile1 wrote:
I'm curious why you need a subpanel?

x2. That's a big job for not being able to remember what not to run off inverter.

I won't be using the big ticket items, but don't want to have issues caused by the DW

larry cad wrote:

beemerphile1 wrote:
I'm curious why you need a subpanel? It is only 1200 watts which is equivalent to 10 amps.

If the trailer in your picture is what you have, I suspect that you too have a "sub panel". If you have a breaker panel in your RV, you have a sub panel by definition.

I have a 2000 watt inverter and don't see the need to feed a subpanel from it. It only feeds one circuit.

beemerphile1 wrote:

larry cad wrote:

beemerphile1 wrote:
I'm curious why you need a subpanel? It is only 1200 watts which is equivalent to 10 amps.

If the trailer in your picture is what you have, I suspect that you too have a "sub panel". If you have a breaker panel in your RV, you have a sub panel by definition.

I have a 2000 watt inverter and don't see the need to feed a subpanel from it. It only feeds one circuit.

I'll be feeding 4 circuits, so as to keep different items operational plus need to be able to use for a cpap, again, no A/C, hot water heater, converter/Battery Charger. In my class A, the inverter runs everything but the A/C's.

We have a 3000 watt inverter in a 50 amp coach. Shore cord is plugged into a 50 amp female socket wired to the inverter with the two hots tied together(like a 30 to 50 adapter). This powers the whole coach with maximum flexability. We treat the inverter like 30 amp service (only one big draw at a time). The inverter will run anything in the coach (except for the A/C of course). Yay, solar 650 watts of solar and 400 Ahours of AGM keeps the power on as much as we need. Works great for us.

Housted

Thank you everyone that replied. However, I did burn the inverter up yesterday evening. So now on the search for another one. Maybe the new one will have instructions, as the AIMS brand had very little information, including information on the web and on U Tube...Again, Thank U
Should anyone know of a brand with better information, please advise..

Do you know what you did wrong?

I like my GoPower inverter. Just a stand alone 2000 watts sine wave.

I purchased an AIMS PWRIG150012120S a couples of years ago. It was specifically selected as it was advertised as "bondable". After a long delay, I finally got around to that project after the window to return it had expired. Before installing it, I chose to run some electrical tests to confirm the operation. The AC voltage line to neutral was a solid 120 volts and it handled an electric space heater quite well. However, I also measured the voltages from line to ground and neutral to ground and both read equal (but reduced) voltages! I suspect that they push the positive going half AC cycle out one lead and the negative going out half AC cycle out the other lead rather that a true full sine wave cycle out the line lead. The only way that I would consider bonding the neutral to the ground with this inverter would be to run the power through an isolation transformer which could cost nearly as much as the inverter itself. Another project on the shelf to get back to "someday".

railtrailers wrote:
I purchased an AIMS PWRIG150012120S a couples of years ago. It was specifically selected as it was advertised as "bondable". After a long delay, I finally got around to that project after the window to return it had expired. Before installing it, I chose to run some electrical tests to confirm the operation. The AC voltage line to neutral was a solid 120 volts and it handled an electric space heater quite well. However, I also measured the voltages from line to ground and neutral to ground and both read equal (but reduced) voltages! I suspect that they push the positive going half AC cycle out one lead and the negative going out half AC cycle out the other lead rather that a true full sine wave cycle out the line lead. The only way that I would consider bonding the neutral to the ground with this inverter would be to run the power through an isolation transformer which could cost nearly as much as the inverter itself. Another project on the shelf to get back to "someday".

You described just what was happening, plus I was getting shocked when I touched the breaker that had the AC in line attached to. So, thinking that it was not grounded correctly, I attempted to ground the AC out to the negative side of the battery, well guess what happen, smoked the inverter...