Here Ya Go Landyacht !
https://www.ebay.com/itm/220-AMP-HIGH-POWER-Watt-HOUR-Meter-BIG-WIRE-HEAVY-8-AWG-Solar-Wind-Turbine/232606182993?hash=item362868ae51:g:SgAAAOSwBjdaPewt NOW READ'S KWH (hours) so you can track...
Forum Discussion
Thanks for the heads up.
I saw something similar on Amazon a while back, which is now 'currently unavailable' for about 10$ more, but could not, and cannot justify the purchase at this point.
My soldering skills have progressed greatly since I modified the 12awg wattmeters to 8awg. Amazing what havng a clean connection between soldering gun output and the tip will do.
I thought and reported that the silicone wire provided with these was aluminum conductor, but a knife scraped along the stranding indicates it is super finely stranded tinned copper and very very flexible.
In my experience the 8awg gets quite warm at a constant 40 amps, and hotter closer to the 45 amp anderson powerpoles whose contacts are designed for 10AWG max, and the 12 awg got hot enough to be uncomfortable holding on tightly to it, but it never got stinky hot.
WindyNation sold/sells a wattmeter version with 8awg leads, just as flexible, and I bought it, but the AH, WH and KWH figures are way way out of whack with reality.
It also reads a bit high on voltage and sometimes, I have never found any common factor as to when and where it will decide to jump around wildly on the amp and wattage figures and about 0.15v on the voltage. Sometimes it is nice and steady, other times not.
When it decides to not jump around like a meth addled hallucinating monkey, I have been impressed with its ability to accurately display a 0.06 amp load.
So, I use it, but if the numbers are jumping around I do not trust volts or amps or watts, and I never trust its AH or Wh readings.
I see some Drok 100 amp bidirectional Meters that come with a hall effect sensor that one day I might experiment with.
The two GTpower branded wattmeters that I employ, one has been permanently on my Meanwell rsp-500-15 since October 2014. It only counts to 64AH before reverting to zero. The V and W letters on the far right of the screen are missing half their bodies and have been that way since December '15. It likely has thousands of hours on it at absorption and float voltages as I do noot cycle my battery each and every night, but will use 35 to 65Ah each and every night.
The other GTwattmeter is a portable. I have 45 amp powerpoles on almost every load, and trust them unless the load is under 0.5 amps, where they will read low, and they will not register under a 0.18 amp load, but above this upto 40amps at least, they read fairly closely inline with my Shunted meter and my clamp on meter.
Even with 8awg and no Connectors, I'd not trust them to continuously support more than 45 amps, though I do not feel heat coming from the body, only the wires.
The claimed amp ratings should be considered for brief surges only, in my opinion.
I saw something similar on Amazon a while back, which is now 'currently unavailable' for about 10$ more, but could not, and cannot justify the purchase at this point.
My soldering skills have progressed greatly since I modified the 12awg wattmeters to 8awg. Amazing what havng a clean connection between soldering gun output and the tip will do.
I thought and reported that the silicone wire provided with these was aluminum conductor, but a knife scraped along the stranding indicates it is super finely stranded tinned copper and very very flexible.
In my experience the 8awg gets quite warm at a constant 40 amps, and hotter closer to the 45 amp anderson powerpoles whose contacts are designed for 10AWG max, and the 12 awg got hot enough to be uncomfortable holding on tightly to it, but it never got stinky hot.
WindyNation sold/sells a wattmeter version with 8awg leads, just as flexible, and I bought it, but the AH, WH and KWH figures are way way out of whack with reality.
It also reads a bit high on voltage and sometimes, I have never found any common factor as to when and where it will decide to jump around wildly on the amp and wattage figures and about 0.15v on the voltage. Sometimes it is nice and steady, other times not.
When it decides to not jump around like a meth addled hallucinating monkey, I have been impressed with its ability to accurately display a 0.06 amp load.
So, I use it, but if the numbers are jumping around I do not trust volts or amps or watts, and I never trust its AH or Wh readings.
I see some Drok 100 amp bidirectional Meters that come with a hall effect sensor that one day I might experiment with.
The two GTpower branded wattmeters that I employ, one has been permanently on my Meanwell rsp-500-15 since October 2014. It only counts to 64AH before reverting to zero. The V and W letters on the far right of the screen are missing half their bodies and have been that way since December '15. It likely has thousands of hours on it at absorption and float voltages as I do noot cycle my battery each and every night, but will use 35 to 65Ah each and every night.
The other GTwattmeter is a portable. I have 45 amp powerpoles on almost every load, and trust them unless the load is under 0.5 amps, where they will read low, and they will not register under a 0.18 amp load, but above this upto 40amps at least, they read fairly closely inline with my Shunted meter and my clamp on meter.
Even with 8awg and no Connectors, I'd not trust them to continuously support more than 45 amps, though I do not feel heat coming from the body, only the wires.
The claimed amp ratings should be considered for brief surges only, in my opinion.
