Forum Discussion
RinconVTR
Oct 01, 2015Explorer
otrfun wrote:
For those who would like to get past the many anecdotal, doomsday comments about running a 13.5k BTU a/c with one EU2000i, these two steps may help you gain a more objective perspective on the actual risk and chance of success:
1. Check the LRA (locked rotor amp) rating for your current or prospective 13.5k BTU a/c unit. If it's 50a or lower, odds are very high you can reliably start it with one EU2000i with the Eco mode on. Almost a sure thing with the Eco mode off. Once you're reasonably confident you can start it, now you can focus on step 2, running it.
2. Check the continuous current rating of your current or prospective 13.5k BTU a/c unit. Typically, the continuous current rating for the vast majority of 13.5k BTU a/c's range from 10-14a. Honda says the EU2000i can reliably provide 13.3a of current indefinitely, and 16.6a for up to 30 minutes. Assuming the LRA (from step 1) is low enough to allow reliable starts, and you trust Honda, then it's reasonable to assume one EU2000i has sufficient continuous power to reliably run the vast majority of 13.5k BTU a/c's.
Ok, so you don't trust Honda? Have a low tolerance for risk? Well, you do have the option of making life kinder and more gentler for your EU2000i. Simply purchase/use a 13.5k BTU a/c that has a continuous current rating much closer to 10a (along with a sufficiently low LRA).
If you're uncomfortable pushing your EU2000i to 10a, well, you may want to reconsider that drive to work this morning . . . I've heard it can be potentially fatal.
Great response.
I cannot directly add to the 13.5k BTU AC on generator discussion, however I can verify my 11.5k BTU unit runs at 1100-1200 watts monitored by a KillAWatt meter, on high. Start up draw peaks around 1400 watts.
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