Forum Discussion
wa8yxm
Feb 04, 2014Explorer III
THoughts: Many:
1: No shore power
2: Tripped breaker
3: Bad heat element
4: Bad relay
5: Bad control board
6: Blown fuse on control board (not likely since most water heater boards have only one fuse)
7: Bad switch
Testing procedure.... If it is an Atwood (Do not knwo where they park the element on Surburans) so you'll have to adjust step 2.
1: Confirm good power to unit.. (on an atwood the electric element is on the rear, (Inside the motor home side) of the heater, There is often a "Black box" near the water heater on the inside, it contains a relay,, Check for power here.
2: Make sure relay operates (turn on electric when tank full of cool water and observe/listen
3: Check for power to element (output side of box/relay)
4: Kill power and measure resistance of element (infinity, not good)
Diagnosis
Since it works on GAS we know you have good 12v
No relay operation check for 12 volt on coil leads, Present: Bad relay Absent, Bad control board.
Relay operates but no power to element, (Power into black box none out) Bad relay
Power out of black box, but heat element indicates INFINITY (OPEN) on resistance test.. Bad element.
Some folks suggest getting a common 240 volt element, this will result in far lower current consumption (and hours to reheat the water by the way) when on limited power.. I'd love to see Atwood come out with a dual element heater. but alas, they have yet to do so.
1: No shore power
2: Tripped breaker
3: Bad heat element
4: Bad relay
5: Bad control board
6: Blown fuse on control board (not likely since most water heater boards have only one fuse)
7: Bad switch
Testing procedure.... If it is an Atwood (Do not knwo where they park the element on Surburans) so you'll have to adjust step 2.
1: Confirm good power to unit.. (on an atwood the electric element is on the rear, (Inside the motor home side) of the heater, There is often a "Black box" near the water heater on the inside, it contains a relay,, Check for power here.
2: Make sure relay operates (turn on electric when tank full of cool water and observe/listen
3: Check for power to element (output side of box/relay)
4: Kill power and measure resistance of element (infinity, not good)
Diagnosis
Since it works on GAS we know you have good 12v
No relay operation check for 12 volt on coil leads, Present: Bad relay Absent, Bad control board.
Relay operates but no power to element, (Power into black box none out) Bad relay
Power out of black box, but heat element indicates INFINITY (OPEN) on resistance test.. Bad element.
Some folks suggest getting a common 240 volt element, this will result in far lower current consumption (and hours to reheat the water by the way) when on limited power.. I'd love to see Atwood come out with a dual element heater. but alas, they have yet to do so.
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