Hot water tank plug never seen one like this

aruba5er wrote:
Using an eight point socket and adapters to get down to 1/4" i'd use my small Ridgid impact driver. Not too much power but enough to probably break the bond of rust (electroli. I really think that would loosen enough to get it out. I then replaced mine with whatever hardware to but in a 3/4" ball valve. Forever done.
Anyone using a 12 point is just kidding themselves. Thats why they make 8 point.

A 12 point IS "less than ideal" but, consider this, the OP IS dealing with a aluminum tank with a steel plug..

Guess which item IS going to "give" first..

THE TANK THREADS..

The softer aluminum tank threads have a far greater risk of being damaged.

Any rust or corrosion on the threads of the steel plug will deform and possibly damage the tank threads.. That is why the OP needs to remove carefully by backing out a quarter turn then tightening it a quarter turn then reversing and backing out a little more.. Each time it SHOULD make some ground..

You simply cannot "horse" this out if you want any chance of not severely damaging the tank in the process.

At least if the OP strips the head on the plug they STILL have a "usable" water heater..

Strip or damage the threads on the tank and it is pretty much scrap unless you wish to pay a metal shop to weld a new bung on the tank.. Welders do not come cheap and finding a welder that welds aluminum is a challenge.. Not to mention the welder would need to strip the tank of the controls and shroud in order to be able to weld around the new bung (can't get enough room to weld in place).