Hot water tank plug never seen one like this

"You must not have a Atwood?"

lol Heck, I've never set foot in any RV. Just a dumb retired Submariner that has come to this site for 3+ years to learn about portable electrical generators... and I've learned a lot!

Sorry I butted in with the suggestion of using an open ended wrench - actually the correct tool but if there is no room, of course it was a dumb idea on my part.

If you think your RVs are cramped and sometimes hard to work in, I could swap Submarine access stories with you I suspect.

Saltidog writes “Do not people have access to open end wrenches any more? Why would one want to use a socket that only contacts a square nut at the four corner points? (BTW, that suggests using a socket with a number of points devisable by four... eg NOT six...)”


You must not have a Atwood?

The placement of the drain plug pretty much precludes the usage of ANY open end wrench.

The real easy way to remove the drain plug on a Attwood IS with a socket since you can add a extension to get the ratchet OUTSIDE AND AWAY from the control valve that is in the way.

You might get a open end wrench on the plug, but there is no place to swing it, it will hit the control valve or the tank shroud and you can’t get your hand in there to get leverage.

I was too tired to look it up last night but here you go..

USING 12 POINT SOCKET TO REMOVE SQUARE BOLT

See post number 4.. which I will quote..

“A 12-point socket can be used on a square nut if it happens to fit close enough. The teeth of the socket do not match the angle of the corners of the nut, but often will get the job done. I believe that one reason older socket sets have so many /32" sizes is to they would fit square nuts.

I broke several SK 5/8" 12-point sockets by using them on square head bolts when I was young and stupid, so I speak from experience.”

Granted, using a 12 point is “less than ideal”, truth be told it CAN work in a pinch.

4/8 point sockets are not all that common in RETAIL stores, to find one you will most likely NEED to ORDER one. Not to mention buying a 4/8 point socket exclusively for this ONE TIME USE will be a waste of the OPs money since the chances of ever using that socket again are pretty darn low.

I know none of the stores in my area carry any 4/8 point sockets, I have looked due to dealing with antique engines which often are constructed exclusively with square bolts.

What you must do though is to find a 12 point socket that FITS as tightly as possible, you may find the need to try METRIC sockets which will have “in between sizes” from SAE common sizes.

Another alternative is a “claws foot” (AKA Crows foot) which is simply a shortened version of a open end wrench and has a square hole for a ratchet wrench or ratchet extension.. But once again no longer a commonly found tool in retail stores (you might find a small claws foot kit at Sears if you are lucky to have a Sears store)..

Not even sure drilling out the plug is an option, plug is at an angle and I doubt you will be able to get a drill to angle without the tank shroud interfering. The only hope would be to remove the entire tank from the RV, then disassemble the tank shroud from the tank..

Sadly I think a few comments of replacing the entire tank just might be the cold hard reality since the steel plug is harder than the softer aluminum.. The plug and any corrosion on the plug inside the tank most likely will deform/damage the threads. But with some care you may as well attempt a try, nothing to lose at this point, can’t drain it and if in freezing climate it will be toast the next winter.

Look at where the plug is for most water heaters. I doubt that box or open end wrench will work that well. Very little room to apply a good pull and probably not square on the plug head. A recipe for rounding out the edges or twisting or bending the tank port.

Socket on extension much better. Of course you would need a 4 pt socket!!!

SaltiDawg wrote:
Do not people have access to open end wrenches any more? Why would one want to use a socket that only contacts a square nut at the four corner points? (BTW, that suggests using a socket with a number of points devisable by four... eg NOT six...)

You are right, that 12-point will work as well, but traditional 12 point will easy round corners.
Now new-technology 12 point is different story. If you find one that fits firmly over square, that would be good.
I bought sets of those in box and socket. Really amazing. Got even big E-torx with them.

Do not people have access to open end wrenches any more? Why would one want to use a socket that only contacts a square nut at the four corner points? (BTW, that suggests using a socket with a number of points devisable by four... eg NOT six...)

Well if you're going to go for it, I would use the 8 point like others said but on an impact on a low setting. The Tat...tat..tat may break the bond. A breaker bar I'm thinking will just pull the threads out of the soft metal.

Chris Bryant wrote:
I would leave it and save for a new tank.

X2 if you need to drain the tank, you may have an electric element on the back side if you have gas/electric model which can be unthreaded.

I would leave it and save for a new tank.

Terribly corroded due to electrolysis. I would freeze the plug with Freon, then try rocking the plug back & forth till it breaks free. Good luck, hope you do not lose the aluminum threads and require a new tank.

X3 on the eight point socket but use an 18" breaker bar to control your leverage and save your skin and blood for another project.