how long?
Hi, I'm replacing all my extension cords with #10 wire (the type which remains flexible below freezing) with 30 amp male and female plugs. Initially I'm thinking I'll do the following lengths. ...
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Hi,
Those lengths look fine. However I would also recommend a voltage booster.
I built one with a 30 amp 12" long cord, and a 30 amp receptacle attached with a deep box and chase nipple to attach it to the transformer.
I have high confidence in your ability to hook up and test this sort of voltage booster, and if it reduces the voltage, you will figure out what wires need to change (or will ask). . .
So Grainger part #4LEF9 is a 500 watt 12 volt transformer (rated at 40 amps at 12 volts boost). Basically you wire it up like the diagram that comes with the transformer. You take the 120 volt input, then wire the black to the input of the 12 volt, and wire the output receptacle to the white wire and the output of the 12 volt transformer, giving it a 12 volt boost.
I lived in a ranch with my RV about 300' from the main house. I had 120 volts when there was no load, but I would drop about 1 volt per amp that the RV was using. So microwave or A/C would drop the voltage by about 12 volts. My booster would bring it up to 132 volts when no load, but drops back to around 118 when the A/C is on. I would not run the refrigerator on electric while boosted, as it can damage the heating element.
The power lines from the main house to the pump house where #8 and protected at 30 amps. I also shared loads with the pump, so when it ran, the voltage could dip another 6 volts (the amp rating on the pump too). .
http://www.grainger.com/product/ACME-ELECTRIC-Buck-Boost-Trans-4LEF9?functionCode=P2IDP2PCP
Fred.
Those lengths look fine. However I would also recommend a voltage booster.
I built one with a 30 amp 12" long cord, and a 30 amp receptacle attached with a deep box and chase nipple to attach it to the transformer.
I have high confidence in your ability to hook up and test this sort of voltage booster, and if it reduces the voltage, you will figure out what wires need to change (or will ask). . .
So Grainger part #4LEF9 is a 500 watt 12 volt transformer (rated at 40 amps at 12 volts boost). Basically you wire it up like the diagram that comes with the transformer. You take the 120 volt input, then wire the black to the input of the 12 volt, and wire the output receptacle to the white wire and the output of the 12 volt transformer, giving it a 12 volt boost.
I lived in a ranch with my RV about 300' from the main house. I had 120 volts when there was no load, but I would drop about 1 volt per amp that the RV was using. So microwave or A/C would drop the voltage by about 12 volts. My booster would bring it up to 132 volts when no load, but drops back to around 118 when the A/C is on. I would not run the refrigerator on electric while boosted, as it can damage the heating element.
The power lines from the main house to the pump house where #8 and protected at 30 amps. I also shared loads with the pump, so when it ran, the voltage could dip another 6 volts (the amp rating on the pump too). .
http://www.grainger.com/product/ACME-ELECTRIC-Buck-Boost-Trans-4LEF9?functionCode=P2IDP2PCP
Fred.
