How Low is Too Low (Voltage)

FWIW I use a hughes autoformer. I have a 50 amp 5th wheel with 2 AC's.. When I'm at a corps park with 30 amps it allows me to run both AC's. I do put the refrig and water heater on gas, and when we forget and run the microwave it blows the circuit breaker. But with just the AC's it will boost 108 volts to 120 while running the ac's.

I'm old and I'm cranky. So when I plug in somewhere and voltage falls flat on its face, I cannot rely on an energy management system this, and autoformer that...

The powerline transformer would catch fire. Or the receptacle would send up smoke signals for reinforcements...

So rather than fret, I'll plug in one of these critters and go about life as normal. They are small and bulletproof. I can transfer one or more from outlet to outlet. Slightly less expensive than a 2-ton gizmo.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=15-1169&catname=electric

Hurricaner wrote:
Progressive industries uses the term EMS but it is not the correct term. A true EMS system like Intellitec makes, actually does manage your electrical system and allows you to operate a 50 amp RV on 30 amps by managing your loads. The PI unit is a surge protector with additional high/low voltage cutoffs, calling it an EMS just creates confusion.

Sam

Technically speaking, your point is taken. So, what do you suggest everyone call it to reduce confusion? To be clear, the confusion I'm referring to (for those that do NOT have an electrical/electronics background) is the belief by many that a "surge protector" is a catch-all that provides all inclusive voltage/wiring protection.

Progressive Industries has chosen to call their "surge protectors", surge protectors, and their products that provide very important voltage and wiring protection (and surge protection) an Electrical Management System (EMS). You may disagree with this, but at least it clearly delineates their products, reduces confusion (for the average consumer) and is very good marketing :)

Progressive industries uses the term EMS but it is not the correct term. A true EMS system like Intellitec makes, actually does manage your electrical system and allows you to operate a 50 amp RV on 30 amps by managing your loads. The PI unit is a surge protector with additional high/low voltage cutoffs, calling it an EMS just creates confusion.

Sam

Oops, double Post.

Bit Bucket wrote:

otrfun wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

JesLookin wrote:

otrfun wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
108V is my minimum even though my surge protector doesn't shut power down until 104V

I'm sure you're referring to an EMS (electrical management system).

Just to enlighten folks that may not know, surge protectors do not provide any protection against continuous low or high voltage. Surge protectors only provide protection against momentary high voltage surge or spikes from lightening strikes or other momentary electrical anomalies.

Some surge protectors DO protect from low & high voltage conditions.

My portable 50A surge protector does.......shuts off power at 104V or 132V...auto resets, checks for open neutral, reversed polarity, mis-wiring.
Just depends on how much you which to spend...some don't shut down on voltage levels

Simply put, you're choosing to call an Electrical Management System a "surge protector". A "surge protector" does not provide continuous low or high voltage protection. If a "real" surge protector provided all this protection, why would anybody (including you and I) spend all the extra money for an EMS (electrical management system)??? Progressive Industries sells a real, genuine "surge protector" for less than $l00. Whey do folks buy the more expensive EMS for $300??? Both the Progressive Industries Electrical Management System and the less expensive Progressive Industries "surge protector" provide "surge protection".

Well and accurately stated. I know what you are attempting to communicate. It's like saying my car will pull a 70,000 pound trailer when my "car" is not a "car" it is in fact a Semi Tractor. Just because I refer to my Semi as a "Car" doesn't mean all cars will pull 70,000 lb trailers.

Unfortunately, precise names and terminology are often miscommunicated and misunderstood, leaving the consumer possibly buying something they really didn't want.

It is almost impossible to make the point you are trying to make without offending or appearing contradictory or without eliciting the "don't tell me what *x* does or doesn't do, I have one of "those" and I know better" responses. I commend your effort and persistence though!

Thank you, Bit Bucket. I can't tell you how many times I've talked to folks on the road who have a simple "surge protector" believing they're *completely* protected from all electrical gremlins. Those that own an EMS (Electrical Management System), who say nice things about all the wonderful things it does, and choose to call it a "surge protector", are unknowingly perpetuating an untrue capability and a false sense of security about "surge protectors".

Low voltage across light bulbs and purely resistive loads is really no problem. Motors (e.g. compressors, etc) on the other hand can be damaged by low voltage. There isn't a magic cutoff number in reality below which damage will occur and above which there is none, but I do use the same rule of thumb that others have stated. The lower the voltage, the more likely and severe the damage, especially when the motor is working at maximum load. The damage can be cumulative.

The first answer you got was correct, unless otherwise stated on the product. +/-10%. Regardless of what it says at the post, you should periodically check the voltage. Each appliance eats more voltage.

otrfun wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

JesLookin wrote:

otrfun wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
108V is my minimum even though my surge protector doesn't shut power down until 104V

I'm sure you're referring to an EMS (electrical management system).

Just to enlighten folks that may not know, surge protectors do not provide any protection against continuous low or high voltage. Surge protectors only provide protection against momentary high voltage surge or spikes from lightening strikes or other momentary electrical anomalies.

Some surge protectors DO protect from low & high voltage conditions.

My portable 50A surge protector does.......shuts off power at 104V or 132V...auto resets, checks for open neutral, reversed polarity, mis-wiring.
Just depends on how much you which to spend...some don't shut down on voltage levels

Simply put, you're choosing to call an Electrical Management System a "surge protector". A "surge protector" does not provide continuous low or high voltage protection. If a "real" surge protector provided all this protection, why would anybody (including you and I) spend all the extra money for an EMS (electrical management system)??? Progressive Industries sells a real, genuine "surge protector" for less than $l00. Whey do folks buy the more expensive EMS for $300??? Both the Progressive Industries Electrical Management System and the less expensive Progressive Industries "surge protector" provide "surge protection".

Well and accurately stated. I know what you are attempting to communicate. It's like saying my car will pull a 70,000 pound trailer when my "car" is not a "car" it is in fact a Semi Tractor. Just because I refer to my Semi as a "Car" doesn't mean all cars will pull 70,000 lb trailers.

Unfortunately, precise names and terminology are often miscommunicated and misunderstood, leaving the consumer possibly buying something they really didn't want.

It is almost impossible to make the point you are trying to make without offending or appearing contradictory or without eliciting the "don't tell me what *x* does or doesn't do, I have one of "those" and I know better" responses. I commend your effort and persistence though!

Thanks again for the additional information.I may have found what the trouble was
(we have moved,and are now plugged into a solid 50amp outlet)When I disconnected the trailer this AM from the 30amp pedestal,the plug just about fell out as soon as I touched it.I'm thinking it was a bad connection causing the voltage drop.